Keep walking uphill from Crescent Crack past Mexican Crack until you see two chimneys and a couple of bolted routes. To the left of the chimneys is a 60' finger and thin hand crack - this is it.
Climb a few feet up an easy chimney, and then climb the steep but bomber thin hands crack over a small bulge. Mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder moves. There are chains at the top, or better yet continue up Hand Jive.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Apr 2, 2005 rating: 5.8+
Just lead this after following it the first time. A very soft 5.9 if it is one. Great lead for breaking into the grade - gear is very easy to get anywhere you want it.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Apr 6, 2005 rating: 5.8+
I would agree with Andrew after leading it for the first time this morning. It is a soft 5.9, and it gobbles up gear. It is a nice climb, just way short.
It has long been assumed that these routes (crack in the woods and handjive) have their grades switched. Crack in the woods is closer to 5.8, while handjive seems more like a LCC 5.9. Maybe I am wrong, but have always felt this to be true, and many others do as well. What do you think?
By Nathan Fisher Administrator May 24, 2005 rating: 5.8+
That would make sense, cause I zipped up Crack in the Woods on lead, and Hand Jive on second caused me to gulp a couple of times. Although, in my defense the crux was wet and slippery still. I need to do it again now that it is drier.
I thought the grade of this and Hand Jive were suspect the day I on-sighted this (supposed 5.9) and backed off Hand Jive before I even started up it. TCU's are great on this.
By tytonic From: San Dimas, CA Nov 24, 2007 rating: 5.9-
Fun route that would be better if it was longer and didn't have the chimney start. 5.8+ sounds like a good rating. The last 10-15 feet are really easy. Didn't have time to do Hand Jive. That just gives me an excuse to go climbing again. I agree that TCU's or other small cams woudld be great. I didn't have any and would've liked them.
Crescent Crack Buttress
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