This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Intensive Care Slab page.
Description
P1- Climb up and a bit left to a bolt. Don't fall here! Climb past 3 more bolts to a long narrow ledge. (5.10d R). P2- From the right end of the ledge face climb past 4 bolts to some shallow cracks. Above the cracks either continue a ways (past another bolt) up to a clean cut ledge (big runout) or traverse right (safer) to a big pine tree. (5.11 R)
The first ascent party boldly continued up above the pine tree to the top of the slab. To my knowledge this has never been repeated. Everyone since has traversed right from the shallow cracks.
This is a classic face climb, put up in bold style. The pioneers were dealing with hand drilling bolts from runout, lousy stances, broken drill bits and the unknown. Long falls were common on this route in the early days because of crumbly holds, and that sticky rubber shoes were not available. The route got its name because one of the climbers, Mark Ward, was sent to intensive care after being injured in a fall.
Others contributing to the first ascent were Mark Ward, Randy Wright, and Dave Cannon.
The second ascent was done by Rick Wyatt and Jonathan Smoot a year later.
Location
5-10' left of Shock Trauma at the left edge of the slab, before it gets steep.
Protection
Draws, a few thin wireds and offset nuts. Poor placements.