Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Intensive Care Slab
Show routes:
Select route...
Intensive Care 
Shock Trauma 

Intensive Care 

5.11- R

   

FA: Kim Miller and Jim Knight, February 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II
Views: 121 page views

Submitted By: bsmoot on Nov 22, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Intensive Care Slab page.

Description 

P1- Climb up and a bit left to a bolt. Don't fall here! Climb past 3 more bolts to a long narrow ledge. (5.10d R).
P2- From the right end of the ledge face climb past 4 bolts to some shallow cracks. Above the cracks either continue a ways (past another bolt) up to a clean cut ledge (big runout) or traverse right (safer) to a big pine tree. (5.11 R)

The first ascent party boldly continued up above the pine tree to the top of the slab. To my knowledge this has never been repeated. Everyone since has traversed right from the shallow cracks.

This is a classic face climb, put up in bold style. The pioneers were dealing with hand drilling bolts from runout, lousy stances, broken drill bits and the unknown. Long falls were common on this route in the early days because of crumbly holds, and that sticky rubber shoes were not available. The route got its name because one of the climbers, Mark Ward, was sent to intensive care after being injured in a fall.

Others contributing to the first ascent were Mark Ward, Randy Wright, and Dave Cannon.

The second ascent was done by Rick Wyatt and Jonathan Smoot a year later.


Location 

5-10' left of Shock Trauma at the left edge of the slab, before it gets steep.


Protection 

Draws, a few thin wireds and offset nuts. Poor placements.