The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service. MORE INFO >>>
That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.
This route features easy difficulty for the first 2 pitches and a little bump up in difficulty if you decide to go for it on pitch 3. Climbing the first 2 pitches and exiting right avoids some of the bushwhacking required to access Rodeo Buttress.
Pitch 1: (100) Climb a 5.5 R slab for 80. Pull over a bulge and onto a 20 slab with 2 bolts. Belay on a ledge with a 2-bolt/ring station. Pitch 2: (200) Climb a 5.4 slab with 1 bolt and an intermediate 2-bolt/ring station. Belay at a 2-bolt station atop a flake. Pitch 3: (200) Climb tiered slabs with 1-3.5 cracks. 2 bolts protect the 5.7 crux section. Belay at a 2-bolt/ring station.
Protection
I recommend 8 quickdraws, 8 carabiners, 4 runners (24) & 3 cams (1-3.5) on pitch 3.
Descent
Rappel 200 to a 2-bolt/chain station on Beat Street Trauma. Rappel 100 to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna. Rappel 100 to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna. Rappel 100 to the ground.
Pitch one starts slightly uphill from Beatstreet Trauma (~30 feet) and Amazing Grace (~50 feet) on a wide featured wall below a point were the ascent gully is blocked by a large chokestone. The climbing could be a little heady- but is generally easy. Aim for a short individual slab 70-80 feet up just to the right of a large ledge with brush along its right margin (the ledge is P1 belay for Beatstreet and Sauna). One or two bolts with a two bolt chain belay. 100 feet 5.6.
Pitch Two. Climb slightly left and then straight up through a dished out slab section. The line follows the eastern side of a large molted slab right of the large dihedral on Beatstreet. Avoid the brush and rotten rock on the farthest east margin. One bolt and gear for pro. Belay on mellow ground at two bolts with chains. 100 feet 5.4.
Pitch Three. The last pitch flirts with the dirt to the right, but generally retains its solid nature. Continue directly up (perhaps a bit to the left) a steepening slab. A nice crack along the eastern edge of a steeper slab provides helpful access to another slab (#4 Camalot nice). Reach the stellar upper slab, clip a bolt and traverse up and left on small holds to a central bolt (shared with Beatstreet and Sauna) and twenty more feet to a Three bolt belay (one botched ). 200 feet 5.7.
Fun route that links up the eastern edge of the slabathon.
Descent. Either rap west (left) over to the Amazing Grace anchors and rappel with one rope (four or five raps) or walk off east.
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