The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service. MORE INFO >>>
That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.
Juli dodging the hooligans on the corner on Beat S...
Route Description
Pitch 1: (200’) Climb a slab to a belay stance with 1.5” cracks. Pitch 2: (200’) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 1” cams may be helpful. Pitch 3: (200’) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 0.4” & 3.5” cams may be helpful.
Rappel 200’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Beatstreet Trauma. Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna. Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna. Rappel 100’ to the ground.
History
Arie Leeflang bolted this on lead, by hand, rope-solo in 2007.
This is a really fun moderate. A little more beta:
Pitch one is probably best if mixed up with 'Amazing Grace' to the left. Otherwise, climb a slabby crack to gritty runnel and slab to belay ledge (~120'- 5.5?).
Pitch two climbs the large west facing corner that arches near its top, exit out the top (fun) and aim slightly right on easy but runout rock (5.5) to alcove belay (195')- 2 bolt belay.
Pitch three heads back out left, following features to a hard to see bolt (~30'). Continue up to a right trending trough (#4 friend or equiv.). Two more bolts finish off an excellent slab (5.7-5.8). Either exit above into broken rock or head right onto the final slab (5.7-5.8, 2 more bolts) and a 2 bolt belay (and one other botched bolt that I'll clean up...)(195'). Its possible this was originally free-soloed or climbed previously, but I found little evidence on recon and tried to be sparing on the boltage.
TCU's or general equivalent are helpful in a couple of spots. Again a great moderate, but a couple of (easy) PG-13/R sections.
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