Features fun crack- and face-climbing on quality granite. The second plus third and the fourth plus fifth pitches can be easily run together into two pitches if you keep rope drag down with use of long runners.
Descend by numerous rap stations available on right side of route (adjacent to Sasquatch). All raps can be done with a single 50 meter rope.
Protection
Standard rack up to #3 camalot. Lots of long runners to reduce rope drag helpful. Takes stoppers well. Some anchors are set up off trees, others have chains.
I love this climb! Pitch 1 follows a low-angle dihedral, over a tree stump, and follows 2 discontinuous cracks (crux protected by a pin) to the belay ledge. There are a bomber set of anchors. I'm not sure about pitch 2, because about 15 feet up the cool hand crack, I traversed to a crack right of Pentapitch and followed it up and left, around a roof, and belayed at a tree. One more short, low-angle dihedral takes you to the short hike to the final 2 pitches. The next pitch is a left-angling ramp that takes killer pro and has some cool exposure, where there are 2 bolts to use as anchors. The final pitch is the crux and is killer! From the anchors of p4, you traverse a thin face left about 10 feet to th crack and clip a pin. The next 30-40 feet are fingers over a slight bulge. The pitch is protected by small cams and nuts. The exposure to your left is wild! Twoards the top the guidebook said there was a bolt, but I didn't see it. I opted to go slightly left and then traverse right to the anchors. This climb is phenomenal! Rap from the anchors on p5 and we rapped off the climb near the top of Sasquatch.Enjoy!
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 6, 2004 rating: 5.8
I climbed Pentapitch today (5/6/04), and didn't see any pitons on the whole route. No pitons anymore on the first or last pitch, as Jonathan mentioned. The thin start of the last pitch is rather runout without the pin. I placed a marginal #2 ballnutz, or a bronze offset might have also worked. Slightly higher a bomber tcu can be placed.
Truly classic climb. Lots of thin crack climbing. Other than the last pitch, this climb stays at 5.6 or less.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 6, 2004 rating: 5.8
There is a bolt on the last pitch. It looks brand new, so it has probably been replaced since the comment by Jonathan. Pitch 5 climbs a thin finger crack, then works slightly right up a flake. On top of this flake is where the bolt is. The climb finishes up with a slight angling to the left.
By Mark Michaels From: Midvale, UT May 20, 2004 rating: 5.8
Recently repeated this climb....and had so much fun! What a beautiful spot....away from the crowds....views of the Pawn....sound of water and birds....really peaceful, not always the case at the Gate!
Regarding the last pitch....yes, it's a bit thin and spicy without the pin. But I wiggled in 2 small stoppers where the pin would be, and equalized them....somewhat awkward, but probably as strong as an old fixed pin!One more move and you get nice microcams.
Been on my list for a while and I'm stoked I finally did it. First and last pitch are the best. I was worried reading all the talk about the yanked pin on the last pitch but... don't think it needed to be there. It was fine. After the bolt I wasn't sure if I should follow that seam up right to an undercling looking flake or just angle left. I angled left almost to the ledge, thought it was too easy and I must be chickening out so I climbed bach down to the bolt and tried right. That seemed more difficult than 5.8! Anyone know which way u go?
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 4, 2005 rating: 5.8
Great line. 3rd pitch really hurts the climb and the scramble to the 4th/5th pitch is doesn't help. I was feeling it on that pin-less move on the 5th pitch, but if you just focus and remember that it's only 5.8...Whether you go right or left after the bolt on P5, go left officially. I also went right, by accident, and that is harder than 5.8 and I had run out of the right size gear to place.
To prevent people cussing me out, I gave it 3 stars, but IMHO it is barely 3 stars due to the preceding negative factors.
The last 2 pitches are amazing! My partner called these "slabby and insecure". Damn right, a serious lead for sure.
By sweagan From: Logan, UT Jan 23, 2007 rating: 5.8
follow the topo, go left at the bolt on the last pitch. (and clip the bolt).
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jun 15, 2007 rating: 5.8
Ruckman guide says it all, "Must-do climb." The first pitch alone is the most aesthetic 5.6 I've ever climbed. The last two pitches were fabulous. Are the second and third pitches so awful that you forget how wonderful the rest of the climbing is? I still haven't climbed them. Besides, you can skip those two pitches by climbing Sasquatch, which is probably the best 5.9 in the canyon!
Anyhow, if you're in a hurry to get down, don't mind downclimbing and you happen to have a 70 meter rope, you can simul-rappel from the top anchor to a ledge just above a tree about 20 feet above the huge ledge between the third and fourth pitches. Downclimb the handcrack past the tree to the huge ledge. From here, you can downclimb the gully to the west and cool off in the Coalpit stream.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Nov 17, 2007 rating: 5.9-
With a 60 meter rope I like to climb this as 3 pitches.
"pitch 1" is to the chains left of the tree. From there "pitch 2" can go to the big ledge/belay spot for "pitch 3", which is the sweet and heady finger crack.
P-pitch. One of the most enjoyable areas to climb in LCC in the summer, bar none.
The pins have all been gone for some time now, several summers ago someone cut down the remains of a small shrub on P1... things change sometimes. Doesn't make it any less fun now, does it?
Every summer it's one of the routes I look forward to soloing (except P5!!) or taking n00bish friends up. There are some great variations to this climb... The P1 (sling the tree long, traverse right 25')--->Sasquatch-->Japanese Terraces covers pretty much all the more popular permutations, combining three routes in one for a nice afternoon of cruiser climbing. Time it right, and you should have shade most of the day.
For the record on P5: Clip the bolt, follow the under-cling flake out right. Anything less and you're not getting full-value... the only one you're cheating is YOURSELF! ;)
like most people have said, im really glad i finally got on this thing. I did the first pitch then climbed jappenese terraces to the big ledge. Then I linked the last 2 pitches together and it was amazing. the moves to the crack from the chains were a definite crux and the finger crack was awsome with some of the best locks ive ever gotten. I clipped the bolt at the top and went right as i had forgotten the topo and felt going left was somewhat of a cop out on the last 10 feet of climbing, it didnt feel much harder then the moves into the final crack and added to the route alot. classic.
Pentapitch Area
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