From the end of S-Crack on "Lunch Ledge" traverse 80' right/east to an overhang with a crack. This is the start of the route.
Description
A very serious route. The consequences of falling on lead almost anywhere along this route will be significant up here. The route is for expert climbers with a cool head when things get dicey. Trust me... they will get dicey. The route is rarely done, so it will likely be flakey. If you thought the first pitch was mind-blowing, the second pitch will be just plain sick. Hang low on the midway belay so you can dodge your falling leader.
Protection
I recommend bringing 4 cams (0.5"-1.5"), 8 runners (24") & 16 carabiners. There are three bolts on the 2nd hanging belay now. Count your blessings.
Descent
Rappel 150' 2 times to "Lunch Ledge". Rappel 90' to a pair of anchors in no man's land. Rappel 130' to S-Matrix. Rappel 80' to ground & scramble or 200' to the Standard Thumb chimney start.
The 2nd pitch is utterly terrifying (I looked at it on rappel). The runouts make S-direct look grid-bolted: I think I counted 2 bolts and 1 knob to tie-off for a pitch that's slightly longer than P2 of S-direct, less featured and quite a bit steeper. Seems like a VERY serious endeavor...
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