Start on The Fin Arete. Pitch 1: Branch right, toward the roof. I used a short runner on the bolt protecting the (physical crux) roof despite recieving rope drag. It was OK because the belay is right after you clear the lip. Pitch 2: Climb straight up one of the most exposed hard slabs you may ever climb. Clip the lead rope through the belay anchor to prevent an FF2 fall on the hanging belay. This is the psychological crux. Belay at a 2-bolt station above a dike. Pitch 3: Finish up a prow that joins The Fin Arete.
Protection
The scariest runout section is directly above the first belay station shown. I suggest a few quickdraws with locking carabiners.
Descent
Continue straight up The Fin Arete to a 2-bolt station directly above a large corner/crack. Rappel 80' to a low angle slab. Scramble down to Gargoyle Gully.
This really is good beta - I'll be bringing a short draw with that in mind. This route has a serious rep. Last spring someone mentioned there was a horn in the crux that used to get slung but that's gone now. They said the FA's wanted to go and remedy this and make it safer. Anyone know if that happened.
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