The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: parking, approach, and location of crag
Description
East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.
Getting There
Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Gate Buttress:
Killer edge climbing with closely spaced bolts above a roof. Turn the corner and pull onto a red, crystalline slab for 3 bolts. Then a little gear in an easy crack and three more bolts up a perfect slab to the anchors of El Guapo....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
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