A goofy name for a pretty nice area. This crag is sunny and secluded. The rock is more coarse than is typically found in LCC. I'm aware of 8 routes in this area. This area was probably never popular with route developers because of the arduous approach. If the steepness didn’t thwart you, the bushwhacking surely would.
Approach
Park at the Grist Mill, 0.55 miles east of the Park & Ride lot. Hike 250’ west/downhill along road to west edge of Grist Mill Yard. 150' northwest/uphill thru forest. 25' east/flat thru grass. 175' northwest/uphill thru trees. 50' east/downhill thru grass. 50' northwest/uphill to large rock. 100' northeast/steep thru trees. 120' northwest/uphill thru grass & past ?old giant steel anchor?. 60' northeast/uphill. 40' northwest/uphill. 20' northeast/uphill. 75' northwest/uphill to big rock. 75' northwest across rocky ground. 25' north/steep up loose dirt. 75' west thru trees. 100' north/steep up loose gully. 300'-500' northeast/uphill (along base of wall) to routes in this area.
Nearby Area Closure
The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service. That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab is closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.
History
The Alpenbock Club may have climbed here as early as 1963, but we have no record of any ascents.
This is a potentially quality, moderate, area. The trailwork on the approach changed it from Mt. Olympus style bushwack to easy dirt scramble. The rock is definitely gritty, but the climbing is generally mellow enough that your not sketching your brains out. Most crack are shallow and with TCU's and tipped out cams to be common gear choices. Runouts abound, but generally seem justified.
Originally several of these lines were originally variations on each other. This place could be/is variation central. Hopefully these will be quality additions to LCC.
Oh yeah- I lost a digital camera somewhere up there in the void (HP w/busted screen). I don't care much about finding the camera but would love the memory card (if it ever turns up) and the pictures of the sasquatch I saw...