The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service. MORE INFO >>>
That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.
A goofy name for a pretty nice area. This crag is sunny and secluded. The rock is more coarse than is typically found in LCC. The slab is highly featured however. As you approach you start to wonder why you hiked up here to climb, everything looks so broken! Keep going, the slabs are actually quite fun, and hidden from the bottom!
This area saw ascents as early as the 60's. However due to lack of information out there a few of the old routes may have been equipped over. This is a great reason why we should try to document what has been climbed. This is by no means a reason not to visit this area however. If you like moderate slab climbing, emphasis on moderate, you'll love this area. The rock isn't too gritty, and here and there it is red and orange with patina all over!
Approach
Park at the Grist Mill, 0.55 miles east of the Park & Ride lot.
Walk down to the western side of the fence on the Grist Mill property. Walk up into the trees. Find the power line road immediately in the trees. You can see a faint trail leading up a steep hill from the power lines. Take this. Keep an eye out for cut branches and faint trail. If you find the correct approach you will find in-situ ropes for helping you over a few obstacles which is nice. When you get to the toe of the slab, hang to the east side of it and scramble up the gully (passing another in-situ rope). Go for about 500+ feet and look for bolts on your left. There is a large vegetated gully that splits the slab. There is bolted lines on each side of this gully.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lots of Balls Slab:
This is a potentially quality, moderate, area. The trailwork on the approach changed it from Mt. Olympus style bushwack to easy dirt scramble. The rock is definitely gritty, but the climbing is generally mellow enough that your not sketching your brains out. Most crack are shallow and with TCU's and tipped out cams to be common gear choices. Runouts abound, but generally seem justified.
Originally several of these lines were originally variations on each other. This place could be/is variation central. Hopefully these will be quality additions to LCC.
Oh yeah- I lost a digital camera somewhere up there in the void (HP w/busted screen). I don't care much about finding the camera but would love the memory card (if it ever turns up) and the pictures of the sasquatch I saw...
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
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