BETA PHOTO: All of the green lines are old existing routes don...
Description
Super Slab is the large, prominent low angle slab you see on the right side of LCC as you enter the canyon. The lower slabs have beautiful water polished granite while the upper slab offers great views.
Here’s a bit of history on Super Slab: Harold Goodro first climbed there in the late 1930’s. In 1961, Layton Kor & Fred Becky climbed there next, shortly followed by Ted Wilson and others. George Lowe and Dave George made the first winter ascent in the 60's.
My first climbing on Super Slab was in 1976, where my brother Jonathan and I followed some of the natural crack systems and a few slab sections. In the 80’s and beyond, SS rarely got visited as new areas and rap bolted routes took off. In 2005, with encouragement from Ted, we decided to climb the blank areas using traditional, bolt protected, ground up technique. We have no way of knowing if these lines have ever been climbed before or not, but it seems unlikely since they stray away from crack systems and any belay spots. Most of the climbing is very easy, which may bore some climbers. Moderate climbing and setting may attract others. The pure friction on the lower slabs can feel quite different from day to day as the temperature and humidity varies. The season is amazingly short, unless you don’t mind climbing in the heat. Summertime provides little, if any shade. Superslab drains a lot of water during spring time and after a rain. Spring and Fall are best. When the river is flowing, a longer approach is necessary. For ice climbers, Avalanche danger is a real concern in winter.
There are some exciting overhanging hand cracks on the right side of the slab. Rockfall is an issue as climbers and Mountain Goats knock stuff off. Most of the gear needed is a small rack consisting of mostly small cams and TCU’s. Almost all of the bolts are stainless steel, thanks to Jonathan. All routes are set up for 2 rope raps (60m).
B Smoot
Getting There
The narrative:
Start at the Temple Quarry trail at the mouth of the canyon. Walk east for a few minutes to an old abandoned cement building. Cross the river here and follow a trail eastward for about 3 minutes. Cross a deep, narrow streambed. 30' past here a small cairn marks an abrupt switchback heading back west and then uphill. Follow the trail for 5 minutes to a small gully. The trail basically ascends this gully to Super Slab. A steep section is climbed via a short fixed rope/aider. Thanks go to Jonathan for doing most of the trail work.
In Springtime, when the river is flowing, one must cross the stream at the bridge entering the Quarry parking area. A 10-15 minute bushwhack is required to get back to the trail.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 16, 2007
Route descriptions and more awesome history would be greatly appreciated.
Eventhough moslty moderate, I have scared myself plenty on your worthy routes...par for slab I figure. And I too think this place is rad! Really pretty, great position, great views, lots and lots of rock...
If it wasn't for you and brother smoots work, effort, and vision...we'd be going with what the Ruckman's left us...and that didn't really make Super Slab sound all that good...
I hiked up to Super Slab for the first time yesterday (rain cancelled any climbing, and made for some slick approach conditions). I've climbed in LCC for 28 years, and never took the time to even take a look. This is definitely an overlooked jewel! The approach is clean, if a bit steep, but thanks to the crew who put the effort into this approach, it's no issue! For perspective, the base of Super Slab is at about the same elevation as the base of the Coffin itself, and I'd consider this a MUCH better approach. Also, the route photos are great, with high enough resolution to be able to zoom in and see excellent detail. I'm looking forward to climbing the routes!