Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
BETA PHOTO: Portable Darkness route location from the west loo...
Description
All pitches are 30 meters (100 feet) long and end at bolted belay anchors. Assume all pitches have loose rock.
P1 - Ascend the lower angle slab to a short, steep finish and belay anchor on a shallow ledge (5.8). 11 bolts. P2 - Climb slightly left and up the steep, black face. Small to medium cams supplement the bolts on this pitch (#2 TCU especially useful). Finish up a neat chimney to an exposed belay position (5.9+). 11 bolts, one piton. P3 - Trend up and left, aiming for a steep, black shallow corner at the base of the prominent aręte. Lower angle rock interspersed with dirt and gravel bars (take care). Pass three bolts below a tree positioned straight above the P2 belay, pass the short pine bush either right (up to tree, then traverse left) or below to the left. One more bolt leads to the belay anchor on a ledge on the low angle slab (5.3). 4 bolts. P4 – Paddle up the slab, clip bolt on face, then climb up to steep, black face in the shallow corner. Pin, bolt, pin (long sling reduces rope drag), bolt. Place gear. Out of the darkness, into the light (climb goes from north facing to west facing). Step up and move right on exposed ledge (pro on right side of flake) then up at transition of aręte and face, passing 3 more bolts to a belay ledge (5.9). 6 bolts, two pitons. P5 – Pass a tree in the corner, clip piton, then pretty much straight up, staying right of the aręte at the transition of the aręte and face, passing ledges in lower angle terrain. Bolt, pin, pin (long sling or skip) then 3 bolts to belay anchor just right of the aręte, and right of the base of a large, flat topped block on the aręte (5.7). 4 bolts, three pitons. P6 – Step up, clip bolt, then pin, then step left and clip bolt. Climb up aręte passing small roof, bolt, then continue up aręte. Clip several more bolts. At a break in the aręte, clip bolt on steep face on the left side of the aręte with a long sling, then traverse slightly to the right side of the aręte, clip bolt, then up face to short pinnacle summit. Traverse broken low angle terrain to final short steep face, bolt, then up to left angling low angle to belay anchor (5.8). 10 bolts, one piton.
Location
30 meters (100 feet) to the right of Gothic Pillar. Start on a low angle slab and look for a brown colored bolt hanger on the light gray face. There has been notable rock fall from above (wear a helmet). There are lower angle goat trails above and especially to the right of the route. If windy, rocks can dislodge and come down unannounced as well. Route could be descended with a single 60 meter rope (hard rope pull on pitch 4) but it’s much safer to walk off to the West.
The route ascends through a chimney visible from below on the first steep section, then a low angle slab to a steeper black face at the base of the prominent aręte. This buttress is the last steep aręte on the right side of the main north face that continues to the summit ridge of Devil’s Castle. The route follows the right (West facing) side of the aręte (Gothic Pillar is on the left side of this aręte) and the last pitch finishes on the aręte itself.
Protection
Helmet. Fully deployed loose rock radar. Recommended Rack: Cams: 0 TCU to 1 Camalot (or equivalent) 12 Quick Draws 6 Slings
This is a good and fun line. Lots of fixed protection, except at the crux on pitch 2. I did not find any cam placements to supplement the bolts on that pitch. Not saying they aren't there, I just didn't find them.
We placed no additional gear on this and I probably wouldn't bring any next time. The wall seemed quieter over on this side, and we didn't notice any natural rockfall. More rocks were noticed falling over by Black Streak.
Did this today; fun stuff, a worthwhile addition to Devils Castle. Thanks to the FA team for putting this up; that must have taken some time, effort and expense. Pitch 2 with that little chimney at the top and the final pitch up the arete were great. We took some gear but didn't end up placing any of it, the bolts and pins seemed adequate. The belays are fairly sheltered and we didn't see any natural rockfall, but there is plenty of loose rock so as always at the Castle wear helmets and climb carefully. Black Streak seems to be seeing more traffic these days, and I would never climb under another party on Devils Castle, so if you are up there to do Black Streak and it is occupied this route would be a good alternative at about the same length and difficulty.
This route is a great addition to the Castle as it is the best protected and most moderate of all of the multi pitch routes. The unique 2nd pitch offers cool chimney that ends at an exposed belay. The upper pitches had some good air too.
Devil's Castle
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