Whereas this huge expanse of rock that begins at East Hellgate had one previous route in the Ruckman guidebook and was written off by most as simply too chossy, Greg Martinez has spent an incalculable amount of time cleaning, installing, and establishing routes here.
These excellent routes tend to be short, well protected, moderate sport climbs. They have become very popular for the Wasatch climbing community, especially in the hot summer months. New 5.9 or 5.10 leaders perhaps just out of the gym for the first time, swarm to East Hellgate and routes like Hellholes or Hellfire. You will love it, too.
A 70m or at the very least 60m ropes are recommended for some of these "longer" sport climbs.
Getting There
Park on the secondary road turn off below the east side of the cliffs near, but down canyon of a micro-wave station. A trail zig zags up the hillside east of and to the right of a couple of huge snow fences. Please stay on the trail. Once at the base of the cliffs after the ascending the switchbacks, skirt beneath the wall on the fine trail and stroll to the far west end of East Hellgate. Here, on the west or left side of the wall, you will find plenty of entertainment. These are not the kind of climbs that you can just do once. The Clamshell will draw you back time and time again.
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