Tower 1 is the Southeast most Tower of the three main towers. It is usually the first wall one encounters during the approach to Main Hellgate.
Mugs Stump and friends were the first to really start exploring this area.
A high concentration of good climbing in a small area awaits the climber here. Bring gear to supplement the bolt placements as most of the Tower 1 climbing remains quite trad in character. You'll like it!
Getting There
As for Main Hellgate. Stick to the trail. This will be the first tower low and east that one encounters. Plan on about a 15 minute approach time. Avoid trespassing on private property.
One of the best sport routes in Little Cottonwood. Starts out slabby, turns vertical and then steepens for the steepest .11 climbing I've seen anywhere....[more]
By Nubbins80 From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 7, 2008
Does anyone have info on the route just right of Medussa that travels up through the steepest part of the cave?
Thanks
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 7, 2008
Thats called Pandoras Box 12a/b, I think Tony Calvert put it up. Make sure to bring 2 ropes and a selection of gear up to 3.5 friend.
It was kinda sandy the last time I was on it, but that was awhile ago, maybe it has seen some lovin' lately. You should add it to the data base after you climb it, it's been too long for me to give a super accurate description here. Have fun!
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