Fun climbing, but bolting cracks for whatever reason should be discouraged. I realize the fragile nature of the features available for protection on this route, but the appearance of a "bolted 1-2 inch crack" is blurring the lines between what should be acceptable and what should not be. Lets not lose sight of the ethics completely just to add another bolted line to the Wasatch.
if you hit the crack with a hammer in the lower section you wouldn't place pro in it.or maybe you would looks are deceiving it looks solid. & the upper wall is detached completely i would not place any thing in this section & don't even use the crack to climb stay left & its the crux. & the upper wall could fall off any day.
I wouldn't argue with any of the points you made Greg. I just didn't like the appearance of a bolted crack for whatever reason. Just my opinion. Next time I will try climbing it to the left of the bolts as you suggest. Hope no one is climbing it when the upper wall does come down:)
At first I was angry to see bolts protecting a line with a crack as its main weakness(in lcc no less) and didnt want to climb it. i gave in today as it was too cold to stay at the purple wall and all i have to say is, DONT CHOP THE BOLTS. the flake at the bottom and the formation at the top seem to be absolutely detached. fun climb but im not sure how long it will last.
Maybird East Side
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