BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Pudgy Gumbies from the belay. When y...
Description
This is a great natural climb that links up a series of left-leaning cracks. The climb is a little dirty, but just needs more traffic. It is fully worthy of your time.
This route is nearly impossible to clean while lowering/rappelling so you must have a second clean it on toprope.
Protection
Micro nuts
Small nuts
Purple TCU
Doubles from blue TCU until red #1 Camalot.
Many runners/draws
60 meter rope gets you up and down.
Quickclips and anchor bolts installed Sept 28th, 2008.
Location
Approach by climbing Endless Torment, and then execute some 3rd class dirt scrambling up ramps to the right, and then back left for about 100 vertical feet.
Alternatively you can climb the first couple of pitches up to the nice ledge below the final Pentapitch headwall slab and scramble down and to the east and around some corners (4th class).
There is a nice tree to anchor into for the belay, and you know you are there when you see the left-leaning thin cracks and a pin about 25 feet up.
an alternate approach that skirts the dirt scramble is climbing Japanese terraces then rappeling over the route to the base off a big belay tree below the final pitch of J terraces. this eliminates the potentail of kicking down rocks during your scramble. locate either the large tree at the base of the route of the fixed nut/piton anchor on a boulder 50 feet below the route.
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