This route is among the most difficult crack climbs in the world. Trench Warfare follows the yellow line. Wench Warfare, an extension, follows the green line.
I've never successfully redpointed the route. But I sure gave it a good try. I think exiting the pod is the crux. Most folks I've asked about it say there is no distinct crux location. The length of the route is what seems to give it its difficulty. Ironically, it's only about 60' long. But the logic behind it can't be easily dismissed. The route is an athletic event. Try not to throw up... or down. :-)
Protection
You may want a rack of 10 cams (2"-6") and 10 carabiners. A buddy can actually hand you each cam from the ground as you are climbing the route. If you look closely you'll notice you don't really need any protection for the crack when it grows beyond 4" because there is a fixed runner & carabiner in place now. If you don't have a cam bigger than 4" you can still keep from hitting the ground. But taking 1 or 2 bigger cams will help you "work" the route near the pod.
For reference: New #4 Camalot: 2.6"-4.5" New #5 Camalot: 3.4"-5.9"
Location
If you can see Super Slab, directly across the canyon from the park and ride lot (and/or slightly up canyon from the electronic sign at the bottom, which is kinda straight across from the Scruffy Band, and Super Slab is slightly up and left of Scruffy Band), then, look to the left.
You'll pass a gully, then hit "Hanging Slab" as the next slabish rock left of that gully. Hanging Slab has a hut cut out in it, and the boulder that slid out of the cut out is what forms the roof crack of Trench Warfare.
If you park, walk up canyon until you kinda straight across from it, you'll see a faint trail through the weeds that drops down to LCC creek. Cross the creek, and pick up a trail that goes by some neat old quarry stuff from the mid 1800's. Follow the trail up hill staying left of the gully to the right (and you'll be able to see Super Slab as well). Trail should go right up to Trench Warfare boulder and then the base of Hanging Slab.
Warm up on the Steinfell route (fun, friction, so, not really a warm up for an upside down OW climb!). Place pro often, the ground is really close...
History
I previously reported the FA of this route as 2005. Sorry for the mistake. I meant 1995. I'm getting old. The decades are all starting to run together.
Calling it a 2"-4" crack is misleading. I remember taking four #4 camalots and one #5 (all old BD sizes), and possibly a hand sized piece for way up in the pod. It is difficult to place the cams and the ground is really close, so be careful. Jonny sent this in an afternoon, although he stepped off instead of turning the lip. I think Brad Jackson was the first to turn the lip, calling it Wench Warfare, 13a.
Directions by Brian from SLC: If you can see Super Slab, directly across the canyon from the park and ride lot (and/or slightly up canyon from the electronic sign at the bottom, which is kinda straight across from the Scruffy Band, and Super Slab is slightly up and left of Scruffy Band), then, look to the left. You'll pass a gully, then hit "Hanging Slab" as the next slabish rock left of that gully. Hanging Slab has a hut cut out in it, and the boulder that slid out of the cut out is what forms the roof crack of Trench Warfare. If you park, walk up canyon until you kinda straight across from it, you'll see a faint trail through the weeds that drops down to LCC creek. Cross the creek, and pick up a trail that goes by some neat old quarry stuff from the mid 1800's. Follow the trail up hill staying left of the gully to the right (and you'll be able to see Super Slab as well). Trail should go right up to Trench Warfare boulder and then the base of Hanging Slab. Warm up on the Stienfell route (fun, friction, so, not really a warm up for an upside down OW climb!). Place pro often, the ground is really close...
Some folks were complaining about posting routes you haven't sent, led, worked to death, broken a leg on, etc. This should hopefully prove that a guy that's never been to SLC can take ten seconds out of his day to be helpful rather than "trolling".
Interesting info. John. I knew that Brad Jackson was the first person to turn the lip, though I didn't know that other stuff. Pretty sick that Johnny Woodward did that in an afternoon, even if he did wear leather gloves and didn't turn the lip. That is impressive. For gear I would add that the new #6 Camalot as well as the #6 Freind are both relly tight at the end, however the old #5 Camalot is the perfect size and will leave you with that ahhh feeling, #4.5 Camalots and #5 Freinds are quite tipped out. Also, the old #4 Camalots work much better than the new ones. Didn't this thing go down some time in the 90's? I know it is in Craig Leubbens article in Climbing sometime in 98'.
Yeah, I too was under the impression that this thing was first sent in the 90's. Its featured in that article "A hard crack is good to find" that was in a 97' rock and ice. somthing like that...
"Star/Quality Ratings don’t allow you to appreciate a route on your own terms."
I don't agree with this statement. Just because someone else thinks something is good/bad, I reserve the ability to make my own judgement.
"Don’t expect perfection or exactly the amount of beta you desire. The best anyone can do is provide what they figure is enough. If you really need more beta perhaps you should consider not attempting the route. If you e-mail me route beta I will probably add it. If you piss & moan in the comment section without giving me any beta I will probably ignore you."
I mostly agree with this statement, the whole paragraph really. However, I don't think anyone was pissing and moaning in the comments section here. You said it was a two to four inch crack, which is wholly innacurate. We wern't looking for better beta, we were looking for the correct beta, big difference. You then proceeded to go way overboard. Just to add my two cents: In a route description I hope to get a genral idea of which pieces will fit in, i.e. a range of what to bring, and a general description of what the crack is like. From this I can figure out which routes I want to go do, and what gear to bring up to them. Also, because this site has the space for it, I love to hear any history about the route. Thanks again John for adding your contributions. Also, thanks Killis for the good directions.
One a different note. We all have our own opinions and agendas, and I think the beauty of this site is that everyones opinions and agendas get muddled together into some form of "consensus". We can all bitch at and argue with one another, but none of what any of us say is the absolute rule or standard. Our own personal contributions simply provide different ways of looking at the same thing. Thank you for your viewpoint ooo.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Nov 16, 2007
oh man, thanks for the amusing photos! got a good chuckle there.
Question, I seem to recall watching a video of Kim Czismazia on this route (or else some other heinous granite OW) but it was years ago and I can't remember... does anyone else remember which vid it was?
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Dec 12, 2007
Allen's Ridge Area
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