Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Devils Castle from Albion Basin
Description
Fun, 6-7 pitch alpine "sport" route. The first bolted route on the North Face of Devil's Castle and due to its inclusion in the Ruckman Guide, the most popular. Subsequently, it is also the cleanest and currently the one most free of loose rock.
Pitch #1: Bolt protected face climbing to a ledge and anchor, 5.10a, 130'.
Pitch #2: Crux pitch goes through a roof and to the right to another ledge and bolt chained anchor, 5.10b, 150'.
Pitch #3: Pass two bolts and climb the left facing dihedral to the midway ledge. Be careful with the scree on the ledge. 5.8, 50'.
Pitch #4: Climb the low angle ramp passing a rap anchor at 100' and several bolts to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.4, 210'.
Pitch #5: Follow the bolts through a roof slightly to the right of the belay, then back left up hard face moves to the belay. 5.10, 100'.
Pitch #6: A fixed rope has been installed to protect the leader passing this unstable scree section to the beginning of the final pitch which starts 40 feet to the right on a huge ledge. 4th class, 40'.
Pitch #7: Originally this started in the alcove to the left. A new bolt has been added by the FA party to facilitate a direct start. 5.7R or 5.9 Direct Start,100'.
Location
After approaching Devil's Castle from below, look for the obvious Black Water Streak to the right of the Little Apron....a popular ski descent in winter. To locate the route, refer to Brian Smoot's excellent overview photo/topo (on MP.com) of the numerous DC lines now available. More bolts have been added to this route over the years, mostly to enable rapping the route with one 60m rope. It is 7 rappels + the 40 feet traverse down climb from the bottom of the upper pitch to the rappel/belay station on top of pitch leading to the great ledge. If climbers are below, do not rappel, but walk off to the West. The Black Streak rappels afford the easiest rappel down from all the North Face of Devil's Castle routes.
Ten, Yes, with one 60m rope Black Streak can be easily rappelled. Much less rock fall these days when pulling the ropes. It follows the route except from the top of pitch #3, it goes to a special rappel anchor directly below, then reconnects with rappel/belay of pitch #1. How are conditions right now?
This route is really very good. I expected worse rock, but it was suprisingly solid. Great position on the wall. The 3rd pitch was pretty wet, this pitch probably gets the PG13 rating, otherwise well protected cruxes. We rapped the route, mostly straightforward, but the last rappel(first pitch) is a bit longer than 30m. Looking forward to trying the other routes on the wall.
Just did this today for the first time. A couple thoughts...As someone else said, I would not climb this route with another party above you. Way too much loose stuff. I wouldnt even rappel this route, the walkoff is very easy and scenic (bring hiking shoes). I would be afraid of all the loose rock when pulling the rope. The last pitch we did started about 40 feet LEFT, not right, of the fixed line mentioned. We continued on a bolted line for about 5 bolts worth of very cool climbing (felt about 5.10ish), then got into the easy open book to top out. Despite a fair bit of loose rock, this route has some great climbing, and is a welcome break from the heat down in the valley.
After talking to James, it sounds like I wandered all over the Castle. Apparently I started on Black streak but then finished on Evil Eye, so my description above isnt really accurate for Black Streak. However, it sounds like the last pitch of Evil Eye may be the best top-out pitch, so you might want to consider this link up. That last pitch is rated 5.11, but 5.11 is about my limit and I lead it without too much difficulty, so give it a shot (sweet climbing on the last pitch!)
great route, great pro, great exposure, the castle is very special. a 60m rope is needed for the rap descent, and very little gear is needed. four stars.
Climbed it 7/12/08. We got rained on by pebbles to tennis ball sized rocks for most of the time. Most of the rock is solid, but we still pulled off quite a few holds. Did not place one piece of gear, nor would I trust any possible placements anyway. Runout parts are easy. We did not rope up for pitch 4, and pitch 6 isn't even a pitch. The best part about the route is the alpine setting. Do it, bring a helmet, and don't rappell.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Aug 10, 2008 rating: 5.10b PG13
did it 8/10/08 with helmets and rappelling and the unusual august hail. only got up to the piton on the 5th pitch before "severe weather" moved in. 60meter rope is pushing it rapping down but we didn't have a choice - bailed on a quick link. I wouldn't be so worried about rapping this route since most of the belay stations are not under the anchors and are protected enough from rock fall with the pulling of the rope. Just be smart.
A 60 meter rope can get you down but you'll be 10 feet off the ground with rope stretch on the first pitch. a 70 would be ideal. We untied the knots so we could rap off the end to a decent ledge.
Didn't place one piece of pro up to where we made it. Won't be carrying that stuff again when I go back tomorrow.
gully to the east had a rope in it and lots of rock fall - whats up with that?
EDIT: 8-11-08: Got to the summit today and rapped back down with a 60 followed the hand line double roped rapped to the eye hooks double roped to the 3 bolt anchor doubled to the first pitch and doubled down. Hung the rope at the top of the 3rd pitch but some how it came undone. Party of 3 car to car sans shuttle on the way down took 6 hours to the summit and 3 hours back to the car.