BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...
Description
Again, Ruckmans only give this one star. But becuase it's not a 5.7 you can just muscle up, and it requires a bit of thought, and movement in and out of the groove, I give it two. Besides, it's another one that's just plain fun. This route follows the large, arcing groove splitting the Egg in half. Move up the face and groove as required, protecting in the pockets and irregularities. Good placement skills are advised. Belay at the belay station in the trees. The second pitch moves along the face to the crack about 20' right of the belay station, and then follows the groove to the top of the formation. Reaching this crack is a bit run-out, but again the climbing is easy.
Protection
Bring a full rack. The groove accepts a variety of nuts and cams up to 3".
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Apr 3, 2005 rating: 5.7
Really interesting route for a 5.7 The gear is much trickier than other tough LCC 5.7s like Beckey's Wall, though I wouldn't go so far as to give it an R rating. Strange climbing throughout, and a more engaging lead than plug and chug 5.8s like bushwhack crack. This is a gem.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator May 14, 2005 rating: 5.8
There is a piton on the 2nd pitch, and chain anchors at the top of the 1st pitch. The top of the 2nd pitch has a couple of bolts with slings. Would you believe I bought some chains for the sole purpose of throwing on chainless anchors like this, but didn't bring them up. Finally, my thoughts on this route: The 1st pitch was an almost too easy 1st pitch. I didn't have any problem placing gear, and I only used a couple of cams, although I did run out the last 30 foot easy section. The 2nd pitch on the other hand forced me into a scared little ball. Well, maybe not that bad, but it was a tough off-width, IMO. I place a lot of gear and the smaller cams (yellow, orange Metolius) and a brass helped out on the flakes after the crack died. The area of the crack directly above the piton was very wet (This last Friday morning after all that rain), and my jams popped, forcing me into a fall. The faces on either side were way flaky as well. All in all though a good climb, with some diversity in styles and relatively good rock.
By chrisnsmith From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 16, 2007
Very fun climb. Led the first pitch and struggled following the second pitch. 2nd pitch did seem like a really tough 5.7. This is probably due to my little experience with offwidths (2nd pitch of Crescent is the only other offwidth I've climbed. The pro on the first pitch wasn't as tricky as I was expecting. I found that it took passive pro better than it did cams.
The Egg
RSS Feed
