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Gothic Pillar 

5.11a/b PG13

   

FA: Brian Smoot and James Garrett, 24 August 2002
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 6 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III
Season: Summer or early Fall
Views: 808 page views

Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006


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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation

BETA PHOTO: Topo


Gothic Pillar 

Located 250 feet to the right of Evil Eye.
Pitch #1: Face climbing to the right of a left facing corner. 5.8, 100'.
Pitch #2: Climb the overlapping roofs (The Seismic Sea Wave) with incredible position and great rock to another ledge. 5.11a, 90'.
Pitch #3: On low angle terrain, scramble to some easy 5th class to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 160'.
Pitch #4: Climb through a roof passing pitons and bolts to a gully on the left. Traverse past this gully (well protected)to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.8, 120'.
Pitch #5: Jog left than right through another roof to underneath a groove. 5.9, 90'.
Pitch #6: Climb past 3 bolts (5.7) to the final upper headwall to the top. 5.10c.
Rappel Black Streak or Walk off
Protection: One set of cams to 3.5 Camalot. QDs and runners. Helmet



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By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2007

Neat route. Roof on p2 is fantastically unbelievable.

I thought p1 was maybe 5.9-ish, p5 was 5.8ish and for me, p6 finish was the crux at an awkward 5.11a (even with my A0!).

Also, we took up to a #2 camalot and didn't feel the need for anything bigger. Not sure we placed the #2 but could have. Placed only one stopper.

Fun!

By nooky brown
Jul 29, 2007

Good rte, p2 makes it well worth the easy hike.

I would link p5 and half of p6 to base of final 10c(ish) headwall. Nice to have your belayer near by for those moves.

gear used - 1 hand size piece + 2rock to back up bolt(belay)for last pitch.

Did anyone mention bring a helmet?.

By steve santora
Aug 17, 2008

Great route guys. I agree with above info. But I don't think pitch 2 is 11a....I'm not an 11 climber and had no problems with that ptich... the holds are awesome.. I'd give it 10c or Little Cottonwood 10a
The crux for me was also the last pitch 10c... 10 feet or so. Was all good and had a great time on the Castle as usual. Also still snow at the base for your beer. Cheers Steve

By James Garrett
Aug 18, 2008

SS,
Just goes to show you how hard core you guys getting after it are these days up at the Castle...I was pretty intimidated by that "11a" pitch BOTH times I was on it! Right On! Also, the routes on DC tend to naturally get easier with time...Black Streak was definitely at one time 5.11a as originally rated (complete with a fern garden on pitch #2 and Pitch #3!) and now no one feels it is harder than 5.10a/b...a whole number grade down graded, pretty significant change, really!
jg

By bsmoot
Aug 18, 2008

On my topo, I tried to make the ratings a bit soft, as to not get anyone in trouble.