BETA PHOTO: The Maybird East Side. The big pine tree growing ...
Description
If the Purple Wall becomes a popular destination crag, you can always retreat to the Maybird East Side, just so long as you brought your trad rack. These routes are in the sun until around 2 hours before sunset, and there was hardly a breeze. The rock quality here is superficially good, but sounds pretty hollow when thumped. Still, the Maybird East Side offers three moderate traditional routes that are all about having fun.
Getting There
Follow the approach to the Purple Wall. From the remnants of the stone huts, a dirt trail traverses across a rocky slope. Be careful, erosion happens quickly here. There are a few cairns that guide you up and around to the base of this area. A large pine tree grows out of the top of the arete. Tack on an additional 3 minutes to the Purple Wall approach.
Feline Stall Tactics starts in a crack inside a small dihedral to the left of the primary corner. It climbs over the arete and into this primary corner system. This section of the climb is shared with Pentapussy. There are some cool fingerlocks and stems inside the main corner system. Climb the handcrack that diagonals up and to the left through the crux roof and enjoy the sweet flake above. Rather than aiming directly for the tree, climb th...[more]
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jul 12, 2007
Buy the topo for this area at IME. The proceeds fund the bolts you clip.
By cobra kid From: Salt Lake City, Utah Jul 12, 2007
There's nothing like having baseball sized granite chunks raining down on you. The first ascent of this area was one hell of a lead and just as exciting belaying. The dance to preserve our rope from certain doom due to rock fall was something I don't wish to try again.
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