Tingey's Terror 

Pitch 4 has a variation that climbs up the steep face into a thin crack and meets up with the bolted variation of pitch 5

"The book" claims a piton in a crack on pitch 5. Couldnt't find it, also the pitch 4 variation is stated to have a bolt, we couldn't see it, but we may have missed it. Also, the anchors at the top of pitch 5 "Fudd Ledge" have multiplied, as there is one set right at the face crux on the left variation, and one just to the left of the beginning of pitch 6 right-most variation.

On pitch 3, we climbed a fun 5.7 layback ramp and then headed right to the tree. Pitches 3 & 4 can be combined if you use long runners on the lower section.

On pitch 6, we headed straight up, climbing a left-facing flake, a finger crack, and past the right side of a roof to a sling anchor at a small tree. From here, we rappelled the route to get down. The rappel from the small tree was slightly longer than 30m; we had to be VERY careful getting down to the bolt anchor below with a 60m rope. Two ropes (or a 70m rope) would be much safer.

Climbed this again, this time from the Fudd Ledge, we took the left line about 5.8 with a little tricky protection down low, and crossed into the 2nd from the left line. Got to a belay bush, with two bolts above us. Climbed the slab past those 2 bolts and a lost screw-link. Up slabs and flakes to another bolt on a face just below a belay ledge. Also, the route to get to Fudd ledge is the exposed runout but easy traverse over and up to the anchors. Just like Outside Corner on JHCOB wall, this is why you are doing this route. Don't cheat yourself.

Did the P3/P4 variation today. Start the flake system, but only go a bit before looking up and seeing a black streaked slab, with a slot at the top in dark rock. Run it out and I mean run it out up this fun and relatively easy slab. This is probably 5.8. Once you get to the slot, you pop onto the ledge and join P4 (The slab traverse).
Protect in the flake well with runners, because that is the last gear you will have for a bit. The book shows a bolt. It is not there. The slot can use a Red Metolius and a #1 Camalot. Then 3 draws more for the slab above.

If you have done the slab traverse already, this makes for a very fun variation..... In other words do it.

On Pitch 6, I did a fun variation. The left most crack (the Right-facer that Ron Olsen mentioned), just right of the left anchors off of Fudd. Layback, and jam up this, make a slab move or two left, off of the hollow flake (watch your gear), and continue up the wider right facer, aiming for the right of the roof. Traverse under the roof (a bit rice-y). Small gear for the initial crack, larger gear for the second crack, and runners or you will pay. 2 chains.
After the chains, move left around the roof, and up the slab to a bolt, angle up and right past another bolt. Continue up and right. Step up onto the next slab with tow bolts. You will be traversing 20 feet below a headwall with a chain anchor. Clip these 2 bolts and climb past the tree-filled gully. Look for the hard to find bolt/pin (lol) anchor.

5.9 is what the book says. I felt 5.7 maybe easy 5.8.

I think the 5.7 friction pitch, the one that clips three bolts and ends up at Fudd Ledge, may be the best 5.7 friction slab in LCC. Highlight of the route, to be sure.

I dunno...we just did it today (5/1/07) as an approach to the Flakes (lots to say about that route)...and we saw two anchors from Fudd Ledge. The left anchor isn't actually on the ledge but 10 to 15'left...I've done all the variations from this ledge now and keep coming back to the right most line (since it links up the best with the upper pitches)but I do like going slightly left from the right anchors too...if you look closely up and left from Fudd, you can see another set of chains about 80 ft. up w/ some bolts up and left of these (the middle variation)...
At the top of this right variation (usually p3 for me since I link 1&2 and 3&4) you end up with two options
a) sling tree and go left into easy gully, continue up to obvious ledges w/ either gear anchor or funky old pin and bolt anchor
b) sling tree and walk ledge to right to awesome hanging/ledge anchor w/o chains...continue up crack/arete/face past 2 bolts to funky anchor in var (a).

ima gonna get some detailed photos next time up...

A while ago my friend and I did this route. After pitch 6 we anchored at the trees and then went for pitch 7. I traversed left and then found some fixed anchors, the travese was really short. Then I climbed up this dihedral that had this pillar type feature about 15 feet up. Then it went up left over this ledge and I built an anchor in a crack I could stand in. From there I think we could have scambled down this chimney and gotten to the scramble to Schoolroom reppell, but we kept going, up this dirty diheral and finally to some trees. I am just wondering if we got off track, and if anybody has done this section, where do we go to get to schoolroom reppel? Thanaks

A little history here. The original 2nd pitch of Tingey's Terror did not traverse out right on the classic bolt protected face. It went straight up to a right slanting bulge/roof, then traversed straight right along a cool foot ledge to it's end. From here, a few quality face moves take you up and right to Fudd Ledge.

The original party, in 1962 (R. Tingey, R. Reese and D. Wood) did not place any bolts on their ascent.

The more popular, classic bolted face used to only have 2 protection bolts on it.

In the 60's & 70's many variations were climbed.

Someone placed three new rap stations on the walkoff to the schoolroom raps and disguised it as a 5.2 route (with lots of bolts between stations). Kind of an eyesore IMO to see a bunch of bolts and chains all over up there on such easy ground. I know the walk off sucks...but its not THAT bad.

That last rap could use some work as well. Someone removed the chains leaving a couple rusty old bolts with a single link on each. Wouldn't be too bad as-is if the bolts weren't placed so far from each other.

Would make a good community service project due to its heavy use.

Did an interesting variation to pitch five today on accident. Headed straight up from the anchors onto the unprotectable slab to the right-slanting wall undercling, then pulled over an overhanging wall to some rap rings and a sling in some trees. From there we did another pitch straight up in the broken-looking (but surprisingly good) rock where we encountered this crazy detached, slanting rock pillar. Ran it out with really fun, juggy climbing to another tree anchor with some manky slings. About 15' above us and to the right were 3 bolts up another buttress that we could have continued on, but ran out of daylight.

See attached photo -- yellow route.