The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Description
The Orange Sling II 5.9 climbs the upper slabs of the Gate Buttress. Begin at the top of Date with Fate or Pebbles & BamBam (same belay).
Pitch 1: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horrisontal crack (5.6). Pitch 2: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9). Pitch 3: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.8/9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots). Pitch 4: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7). Belay off of a giant chickenhead. Bring cams to 3". FA Brian Smoot & Tom Lund, 1997.
This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with Beckey's wall and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of Beckey's. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as Tingey's Torture. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.
So how did this route get posted under bsmoot on July 3 ?? I never posted on that date. I only made a comment, and that was on July 8th
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 10, 2007
Another administrator reassigned the route to bsmoot, thinking he was doing the FA a favor (since it would allow bsmoot to edit the description). Obviously this was incorrect behavior and I've let the administrator know. I'm waiting to hear back from bsmoot as to if he'd like the route to go back to the original contributor.
The administrator really probably thought this would be helpful, but it was poor judgement in my opinion.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 10, 2007
I'm not sure why the administrator did it - I'm awaiting a response from that person as well. It was NOT a local Wasatch administrator, but another regional administrator that has "sitewide" power.
Knowing this administrator, I really suspect he thought he was doing bsmoot a favor, but - like I said above - it was very poor judgment in my opinion. So ultimately I agree, this was NOT acceptable behavior for an admin.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Eldorado Springs, CO Jul 10, 2007
Just wondering, what are you people talking about? Is the route so awful that bsmoot is offended that his name is attached, and why should the administrator now be drawn and quartered?
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 10, 2007
Hank -
For clarification, we are not talking about the FA listing - which also lists Brian. The issue is that an administrator changed the "contributed by" link to be bsmoot, even though he did not post the route and didn't get his permission.
It would be as if someone else posted a Forum Post, and then an admin reassigned it to you. Obviously that might make you uncomfortable since the written words were NOT yours.
Admins, like the rest of us, are human.... and they sometimes make mistakes while trying to be helpful.
I'll get to the bottom of this mess and sort it out.
My idea was to post the above information about the route, The Orange Sling, so I'm fine with the current route description. I just got alarmed that someone else was posting under my name. Could you please tell me who that was? or how he got this information so quickly? If my password isn't secure, then some of my comments could be changed.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 10, 2007
Your password is secure. Nobody logged in as you.
As I stated above, this was simply an administrator attempting to "help out" by moving your comment into the route description and reassigning the route to you.
He did this thinking he was helping out, but instead created confusion.
Under normal circumstances, helping out wouldn't have been a problem, given that my own words were simply being copied. It's just that things with Mr. ooo have been a bit strange lately.
Thanks for your help.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jul 10, 2007
Folks, I apologize. I saw this submission had been deleted or edited to blanks with what appeared to be a straightforward comment with good information. No name, no info, no rating, nothing. I acted without prompting to try to improve the situation. My fault.
Beckey's Wall Area
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