Start: The right/west edge of a big wide slab. Pitch 1: Climb up the weaknesses to the first bolt. Don't make it harder than 5.4. Clip bolt 1 and make a 5.7 friction move. Clip a long runner into the chains above and continue up to the roof. Move through the notch that takes a good cam. A large cam protects the precarious move up to a bolt. Diagonal left toward the crack in the dihedral and protect before pulling up over left and onto another slab. A few more friction moves. Belay at a 2-bolt/ring station. Pitch 2: Diagonal left 30' over an easy bulge of rock to bolt 1. Climb straight up a slab with small intermittent cracks. Place cams when you can and look for bolts in a straight line to the ledge. Most folks will probably want to end here. There is a 2-bolt/ring station 20' back right or you can continue straight up to a natural belay at the base of the wall. Pitch 3: Scramble 100' west along the ledge system. Belay at a 2-blade/chain station.
Protection
I recommend bringing 8 cams (0.9"-2"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24"). The route is a bit runout in sections, but the hardest sections have protection close by.
History
Bolted & cleaned June 2006-May 2007 with the help of Nathan Fisher, Dana Patterson (pitch 1) & Glen Kaplan (pitch 2).
I personally didn't find it to be harder than 5.4 getting to the first bolt. Then the bolt does protect the 5.7 move and it easy from there to the anchor. Typical of routes put up by ooo, bolted to protect the crux but most of the moves below the given rating won't have pro.
Did you do the second pitch, Tea?
I would like to hear of others experience on the second pitch. Were the topo shows a 5.7 crux, the route goes through a steeper section with loose? blocks. Definitely harder than 5.7. I used some aid, my partner freed it at hard 5.10. Maybe we missed something.
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