The ButterFace 

FA:  Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06' New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid Consensus:  5.11+ A1 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 90 feet Season:  Summer, Spring, Fall Views: 161 page views Submitted By: TP in SLC on Jun 30, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Batman the fixed green rope to avoid an accident o...

Description 

P1. Climb obvious finger to hand crack off the ledge on the right, move up at the terminus of the crack clipping a few bolts. A WILD traverse right-ward with your heels hanging over the edge/arete get the blood pumping then you reach the crux. Push hard, grab a jug and follow the sweet arete to a nice ledge with 2 bolt belay. 5.11+

P2. A mix of aid and free through a rotten crack that leaves the ledge on the left. Pass a two bolts until free climbing becomes easy, wander right ward up some ramps to a 2 bolt belay. Dirty, rotten 5.8 A1 (not recommended)

Protection 

#0 -#4 Metoilus, 1,2,3(optional) Camalots, Qd's.
Rap from 1st pitch anchor, 2nd pitch not recommended.