Great Route. Slightly Overhanging big finger crack at the start. (not as intimidating as that usually sounds) Move up and left at the top of this crack to exit out around the corner. Just above is a horizontal crack. Traverse left in it for 10 feet or so and then pull the big-hands to fist to offwidth exit. Excellent!
Location
Up the Green A Gully. Just up from Looney Tunes/Mother of Pearl. This route is located on the opposite side of the gully from Loony Tunes.
Descent: From the offwidth section... move left on slabby rock to a 2 bolt rap anchor in some brush. A single rope will get you to the ground.
Protection
I believe that I took... 3-4 0.5 Camalots for the start varied gear for the traverse (stoppers and assortment of small cams. 0.4 - 1 camalot) a #3 and a #4 camalot come in handy for the exit.
There is one bolt on the route at the stemming move from the finger crack to the horizontal crack.
This is a really interesting and fun route! Go do it. Bring some .75 BD cams/ red metolius for the start as well. Also a #1 BD protects the hand travere really well.
Climbed this route on 09-06 and couldn't find the anchors and did the walk off LOL. Did a sketchy traverse under a huge boulder and downclimbed to the wheels on fire belay ledge. Didn't get it clean but know what to do now, next time I will look a little harder for the anchors. Really cool route, lots of different styles of moves, cant wait to give it another go!
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