On the east end of the Waterfront, is a bolted route that climbs from a sandy porch. It is within voice distance of Kermit's Wad. It climbs a polished slab to an undercling, then attains a hole. Going from bolt 3 to bolt 5 is thin and consistent.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Dec 4, 2004 rating: 5.10a
A small cam may be used in the small corner instead of the second bolt. I prefer this for two reasons: (1) I found it easier to place the cam and clip it, than to reach out way right to clip the bolt; (2) it keeps the rope running a bit straighter, slightly less drag.
I had meant to add a comment on the bad placement of bolt 2, but I forgot until I read Bobby's comment. I totally agree that the 2nd bolt is a joke. I climbed this climb a couple of weeks after I initially posted this route up, and I did it without the 2nd bolt at all. Mainly proving to myself (and others that care), that the 2nd bolt is worthless, and creates a bad line. I was in fact attempting to do it without bolt 2 and 3, since bolt 3 is just above a pocketed/flake/hole thing. But my nerves made me clip bolt 3.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Dec 6, 2004
A red alien is bomber in the small left facing corner after bolt 1. Agreed, bolt 2 is a joke.
make sure to do the SLAP finish! At the last bolt, step out right onto the blank slab (left toe on a good chicken) for one final great move. Usually accompanied by a loud resounding "SLAP!!" as you try and get purchase on the buttcheek top-out for the mantle. Try it...I promise you will like it. Watch your friends under 6 feet go dynamic!!! It's a super fun finish to this short route. OH, and throw an orange TCU in for the second piece and avoid that contrived bolt, I agree...
The climbing may not be world class, but hanging out at the shady base next to the small waterfall is certainly sweet.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT May 26, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Joe T., my guess is you are confused about exactly which route this is. If there is a waterfall nearby, you probably aren't going to be doing much slab climbing that day. See Sweep Left.