This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.
Climbing out of the steep section of the shallow d...
Description
A really fun .10 with lots of really big jugs interspersed between nice pockets and crimps. This has two pitches and the first has two variations - one in the dihedral and one on the face but I'm not sure how those guys meant for it to go. I just know if you link both pitches together in one long pitch its a really fun climb. Just enough jugs and rests to avoid being .11
Location
a shallow dihedral on the middle to left of the Far East Gate.
Protection
10 or 20 (or 21?) draws with some being long runners if you want to link both pitches, a 70m rope gets up and back down to the ground.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jul 12, 2007 rating: 5.10d
The second pitch is named The Bird is the Word and is rated 5.10d, just like Melting Into Madness; however, it is still best to be linked as one long pitch.