Climb the beautiful diagonaling crack/seam to its end and punch straight up the east face of the prominent monolith below the egg. This route is listed as a project in the bouldering guide to Utah. Steve Heath replaced the quarter-inch bolts on top (thanks Steve!) and was working the line on TR. I decided it would be more fun to try to lead it from the ground on gear before bouldering it, but after placing the final shaky pieces, I decided to work out the crux on TR first. Whatever you choose to do, it's a beautiful line on an incredible boulder. I heard Lance Bateman climbed it long ago...
Location
Follow the trail past Tom's arete to the huge boulder jutting out of the hill. Walk off.
Protection
Medium/small TCUs and a hand-sized piece. Small wires. Long runners and a shitty rope (TRing this thing eats ropes up!)
By Bad Sock Puppet From: Utah Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.11b V3 R
This is such an awesome line. Did this on gear and placed a 000 C3 at the very top of the seam, which only griped by 1 1/2 lobes... The crack is super easy, but pulling out of it takes some balls and is very beta intensive for an .11b. Although the gear is fairly shitty, your biggest fall will probably be only 5 feet since it gets easy right after the crux. If you're going to boulder it, then prepare for certain death if you fall at or above the crux.
looks like there are a couple of ways to top out. Stand up on the huge foot and bail like Bad Sock Puppet or move up and left to the obvious tilted crimp and black chicken head. Finish Proudly!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
