A drilling session in early 1993 on Till Hell Free...
Description
Really fun climbing on the Main Hellgate. This is an adventure route that starts with a nice hand and face pitch. Next is is an .11a pocket crux pitch on bolts and then two more pitches of .10 and .9 bolted climbing. Its best to avoid the main hellgate in the Spring due to incessant and frequent rockfall.
Location
Starts in a right facing corner about 60 feet left of a dark streak in the middle of the main wall.
Protection
I brought a standard rack but only used medium cams. Long runners and quickdraws help avoid rope drag. I can't remember if we did two double rope rappels or one double rope and one single rope rappel. Do NOT forget your helmet.
Just so someone doesn't get in over their head, Tenesmus reports this as being 300 feet....sure, the first two pitches. If one does this route or it's neighbor Hell Raiser (5 pitches) or any of the other Main Hellgate routes that go to the top, expect a few more feet of climbing and to need 2 ropes for the abseil. Tenesmus is such a good climber, he probably 4th classed the first couple of pitches up there. For the rest of us gumbies, it is indeed.....bigger.
Just did the variation to the right - it links in just below the 5.11- pitch and continues to the top of this route. Awesome climb!!!!!! Only a few cams (2x#0.5, 1x#2) are needed on P1 (a yellow TCU to a Blue camamlot fit, but you don't need a full rack so maybe take one of every other size). Pitch two was really really fun and STEEP!!!.
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