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Gargoyle Wall
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Big Neon Glitter 
Cloister 
Confession 
Gargoyle 

Cloister 

5.11a

   

FA: Jim Knight and Bruce Roghaar 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Views: 300 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 21, 2007


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Description 

This is the chimney/offwidth system to the right of the classic Gargoyle pitch. This route is really fun. Start with steps and edges, then enjoy the double cracks. Arm Bars with the left and finger locks and jams with the right. Climb to an ancient bolt then the business begins. Either stuff yourself through the super tight squeeze chimney straight up (5.9), or go out the bulge via the offwidth (5.11).End the pitch at a belay with one good and one brand new bolt. Eat your Wheaties for the Offwidth or don't eat anything for two days for the Squeeze.


Location 

High up the Fin Gully on the Gargoyle Wall. Look for the only wide system with a wide roof/bulge section about 75' up.


Protection 

One single set of Cams, at least one monster cam #6 Camalot or equivalent. Double on the monster cams would be nice but are not mandatory. Slings and quickdraws. Stopper are not needed.



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By Bill Bones
From: Flagstaff
May 8, 2007

It's a far cry from skinny. My ass or chest would not fit through with out pouring oil on it first.