One Time at Band Camp 

Didn't he post this as .11d on utahclimbers? Hard down low in July.

Tyler posted it on UC as an 11+, but he also asked for a consensus. I felt 5.11b was accurate. Very slimy this time of year. If I go back in September or October, I may think it is only a 5.10c or something. The upper face is cool and solid, it's just that 1st bolt.

there I go overgrading again! egotisical bastard! N8 ask a 5'6" climber if they think its 11b.....lol...

Tyler, that is true. It is a move that favors the 6 footers. I almost couldn't do it as clean as I did. My partner for the day, who is assuredly better than me, and also assuredly shorter than I, could not do it.

Nice line all the same.

yeah, I don't know...we did it in June, or rather tried it, after doing Stiffler's...I think it is harder than anything on Stiffler's...the 11+ seemed somewhat accurate (I want to climb it again in better conditions--it's got to be at least 5.11 solid--I'm comparing to other routes in the area)...at least for that short 8 foot section that moves past the 1st bolt...otherwise the rest of the route is cruiser and fun (either way you do it: using the flake/chimney thing or staying on the face and using the flake/chimney thing for your left hand only) this section reminds me of that route to the left of funky bolt at the city...the one that starts in the flake/chimney thing :)

but...we'll see how it ends up...there is still room for some cleaning to be done...I pulled off several small flakes and crystals...

awesome work

So Nate a little bird told me that you downgraded after top roping? Did you LEAD it?

Yes it was a TR, however... I had attempted the lead earlier and when the weather is better I will go back for the redpoint. I did take into account the fact that I TR'd it and I also adjusted for the conditions. I personally feel that if you climb a route once that is not enough to get an accurate grade. So take my 5.11b with all those grains of salt.

I have to say One Time At Band Camp is one of the hardest slab routes I have ever tried. I have walked many other slab routes in the 10+ range and feel in no way shape or form can this be 10c. It is at least 11+. Nuff said. Tall guys have it made on this one.

I am headed up Wednesday morn ( 8-30-06) to re-place Band Camp ( around 9am). If anyone would like to join and offer up some opinions please come along. I DO NOT want to start a bolting war re-placing this, I just feel whoever chopped it had a skewered vision on how to climb it in the first place.

Nate,
Curious if you ever went back and led this route? What was your final grade? Did you send clean? 10C would make you a slab wizard if that grade still holds for you. Hell, 11B would make you my new hero.

Mark Davis

Maddog,
Not yet. Anytime you want to get out and get it (as long as you don't drop me :) ) let me know. I took all winter off and am ready for it.

still can't do that move. But I have been on some other 5.11 slabs lately and that thing is .11+. Just nothing there to hold onto. Hell of a lot harder than Punany AND Dangling Participle AND Neuromancer and Romance on the Rocks. I thought it was harder than Walk on Air too for what its worth.

oh - nice hangers!

Quote from Tony Calderone;
"Has this route seen a 2nd ascent?
I would like to talk to anyone who has lead it.
I have climbed several 5.12-5.13 slab routes.
I have not been able to climb this route."


Sweet! 5.14a! If you want to talk to people whom SAW me send it TWICE, send PM's to Troy D. Anderson, Luke Douglas. I only have phone #'s for Bobby Grey and Pete Vanslooten, Nate Williams. But ALL these people have seen me send this (and on different days). And no, no holds have "broken off', because it is PURE slab, no edges or flakey holds. You should try this thing in cooler temps, I sent it in October.

I hear somebody thinks its 10c so it can't be that bad ;)

Lol TP