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Gordon's Direct 

5.11b R

   

FA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 523 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 11, 2004


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

Just right of the flake on Gordon's Hangover is a seam (thin crack) that works to the chains. A reachy initial move leads to thin fingers and good feet, then right at the bolt, one must reach again. Well protected crux move.


Protection 

1 bolt on the route, some small nuts, and a couple of medium cams. Plus, whatever you will need to get to the start as it shares a lot with Gordon's Hangover.



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By Scott McLeod
Mar 12, 2007

OK, first of all, figuring this out is part of the challenge, excitement, and fun, so the above route description has a little too much beta in my opinion. Beta is best included in the comments sections, and even better if it has a **BETA** type warning.

But that aside, I am 5'6", and can do all of these moves. It is exciting and at times reachy, but never height dependent.

By tenesmus
Jun 19, 2007

Just did this again today and I gotta say you can sew it up really well. Super fun climbing but I don't know where its R? Scott's right about the over-beta in the description.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 6, 2007
rating: 5.11b

Wow, great route. Airy exposure as you're working the thin locks with 140' or so of rope out beneath you. Couldn't figure out the top moves so I blew the onsight, but I think I know what to do now, looking forward to getting back on it. There seemed to be a space where there wasn't good pro, pretty much where Ruckmans marked 5.9R on the topo, or maybe they're worried about swinging into the dihedral or something? It doesn't seem to deserve an R rating, especially by LCC standards! Classy variation, too bad you've got to miss out on the lieback flake and upper handcrack on Gordon's to do it.

By Lizzy Scully
From: Lyons
Sep 20, 2007

Hmm, well, I think perhaps it could have R potential if you are not dialed into placing gear. It's certainly not an 11b I'd recommend to a beginning 5.11 leader. However, I did find plenty of gear placements that I more or less felt comfortable with.

I didn't feel it was height dependent. I am short.

By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 30, 2008

First ascent was by Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers. Sometime in the late '80s

By Michael Stearns
From: SLC, UT
Oct 1, 2008

Does anyone know if the first ascent party placed the bolt?