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Peeler Face (Southeast and East)
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Peeler Direct 

A2

   

FA: n/a
Type: Aid
Consensus: A2 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet, Grade II
Views: 608 page views

Submitted By: shawn on Nov 3, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Peeler Direct is the thin crack to the left of the...


Description 

Very thin crack with so so gear. I think if you fell, a lot of the gear would pull out until you hit the four bolts at the start.


Location 

From the top of Riveting head up four more bolts to realy thin crack with a bashie as the first move. Climb the thin crack with marginal gear.


Protection 

BD C3's, ballnuts, and small nuts work well. Bring tons and tons of small stuff.



Add Photo Photos of Peeler Direct
Me just starting up and still on the bolt ladder section. Photo taken from the top of Riveting.

BETA PHOTO: Me just starting up and still on the bolt ladder s...

I'm on the bashie at the bottom of the crack.

BETA PHOTO: I'm on the bashie at the bottom of the crack.

I'm about 10-15' up the crack with a few marginal placements.

BETA PHOTO: I'm about 10-15' up the crack with a few marginal ...

Looking up from the ramp at the top of Riveting.

BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the ramp at the top of Riveting.

Looking down at Shaun G. and Adam.

BETA PHOTO: Looking down at Shaun G. and Adam.

A look down from about half way up.

BETA PHOTO: A look down from about half way up.

Here is one of the better nut placements. This is BD size 1 stopper.

BETA PHOTO: Here is one of the better nut placements. This is...

This was by far the best cam placements. This is a .1 BD Micro Camalot.

BETA PHOTO: This was by far the best cam placements. This is ...

Photo of Black peeler and Riveting.

BETA PHOTO: Photo of Black peeler and Riveting.

Shaun G. Setting up for the Peeler.

BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. Setting up for the Peeler.

Shaun G. Heading up the Bolt ladder section.

BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. Heading up the Bolt ladder section.

Shaun G. Getting into the top steps.

BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. Getting into the top steps.

Shaun G. reaching to clip the bashie at the bottom of the crack.

BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. reaching to clip the bashie at the bottom...


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By Ben Sukow
Nov 5, 2006

The gear's really not too bad on this one. Small offset nuts work really well for the midsection of the climb, either HBs or Wild Country superlight rocks. C3s or hybrid aliens work well down low, and there are good tcu and nut placements later in the climb. A cam hook can be really useful to skip some of the marginal, fiddly nut placements.

Don't clip the rope to the fixed bashy after aiding on it. If you fall it will rip and that part of the climb probably won't go clean if the bashy is gone.

Also, a single rope rap with a 60 m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap station at the top of the crack (tie knots in the end).