Paul Shilton embracing the insecure liebacking of ...
Description
This route continues up and left of the anchors of Looney Tunes through shallow rounded lie backing to small stemming between seams and finishes in a strange left facing, over hanging dihedral. It may be broken into separate pitches, but what fun would that be?
Location
This begins as Looney Tunes then heads up and left to finish about 60 feet above the Trinity Right anchors.
Protection
Many small pieces with cams up to 4". There are a few bolts, a fixed pin and a bashy on route.
The book lists the grade of this route at 11c- at that it seems like one of the hardest 5.11s anywhere. Great route! Technical and insecure most of the way. As for the gear, one hand size piece, doubles up to red metolius with triples on yellow #2 metolius, tiny nut for the upper dihedral and lots of slings and draws should get you up it.