Japanese Terraces 

FA:  Hannibal, Montague '79 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  3 pitches, 400 feet Views: 476 page views Submitted By: Craig Martin on Sep 28, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This enjoyable route follows a dihedral system to the left of the standard Pentapitch and finishes 30 feet above the last pitch anchor of Pentapitch at a large dead tree with slings.

Pitch 1: First pitch of Pentapitch or Neuromancer to the big ledge.

Pitch 2: Start on the far left of the big ledge and climb up a left facing dihedral. This pitch can be broken into two. Belay on the giant ledge shared with Pentapitch. 160' 5.7.

Pitch 3: From the far left edge of the giant ledge start up a left facing dihedral, pull through a bulge or two and belay at a large pine tree on a ledge strewn with boulders. 100' 5.7.

Pitch 4: Continue up yet another left facing dihedral. This is the best pitch with nice hands jams and laybacks. Very exposed near the top as you make a few moves to the right over a roof. Belay at a large dead tree with slings. This is the same pitch as the last on Coalpit Connection. 120' 5.8+.

Descent: Rappel Pentapitch.

Location 

This route starts from the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch of Pentapitch in a left facing dihedral.

Protection 

Standard Rack, doubles on TCU's is nice, but not mandatory.