Climbing the massive dihedral on Gordon's Hangover...
Description
Super classic! There are two ways to approach the meat and potatoes of Gordon's Hangover. I am describing the original start, which takes the most direct line. This way also makes the route best done as one long pitch. Start in the huge dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective. This is also the same start as Touch Up and Perhaps.
Climb the huge dihedral, very moderate for the first 50' or so. Continue up, through slightly increased difficulty, to a big undercling flake. Traverse left with powerful liebacks (first 5.9+ crux, not as hard as it looks). Then quickly encounter the second 5.9+ crux. This time it is a bulging hand crack. The hand crack has bomber hands, but is awkward for the feet. Finally, traverse right 10' on good holds to the anchor. Make sure to protect the second through all the traverses.
Descent) Double rope rap directly to the ground. Alternatively, single rope rap to the fixed anchors on Perhaps. One more single rope rap to the ground.
Protection
Standard rack. This is a long pitch, so bring quite a bit of gear. A #3 camalot is good for the undercling traverse, and save a #2 camalot size for the crux bulging hand crack.
Add PhotoPhotos of Gordon's Hangover, Original Start
BETA PHOTO: Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
Approaching the undercling flake, Gordon's Hangove...
Powering through the flake.
Andrew pulling through the first crux on Gordon's ...
Add CommentComments on Gordon's Hangover, Original Start
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By Nathan Fisher Administrator Sep 24, 2005 rating: 5.9+
The other way to start Gordon's Hangover is to do the 1st pitch of Perhaps and then come up the crack to the main part of Gordon's. Again, another great climb with committment. The initial crux (the bulgy layback) looks harder than it is, and is way intimidating. However, as Peter says, the bulging hand crack is tough. My partner could not do it easily.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.9+
good line. a little crumbly about mid way up. consider pro right after the bulge for the follower. how about that step across to the anchor!
Fabulous route. We did it as one pitch, although rope drag can be an issue. The route starts out easy, then gets progressively more difficult all the way to the anchors. The cruxes first feature a massive flake requiring sidepulling and high stepping, followed by a steep fist crack (I had to step out onto the face at right to finish). In all, worthy of a 4-star rating.
If this was the only route available, it would still be worth the boulder hopping slog.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Sep 27, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled.
By Wally29 From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 16, 2006
Pretty mellow until intimidating undercling traverse, but good feet and bomber pro. Hand crack crux is akward on the feet and requires some commitment. Protect second for traverse to anchors.
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Aug 7, 2008 rating: 5.10-
If touch up is a 5.9+ than Gordons Hangover is a 5.10- or maybe a 10a, I'm not sure of the difference! Great crack with some awesome moves. The undercling traverse is sweet and the hand jam on the bulge above is difficult if your not a hand jamming expert, especially because of the awkward feet. As 1 pitch it is long and excellent!
EDIT: Ok so after talking to tenesmus I thought I should add this disclaimer: The crux on this climb will feel harder if you are not super solid with hand jam technique, otherwise it does seem to fall in the 9+ category along with it's neighbor "Touch Up"
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Aug 19, 2008 rating: 5.9+
I'm good at hand jamming and not good at face climbing. To me, Gordon's felt like 5.9 only because of the traverse, and the upper part felt fairly easy. Touch Up felt like 5.10. Go figure.
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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