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The Fin
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Dark Horse 
Dorsal Fin, The 
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Hand Drills Suck! 
Other Intentions 

Hand Drills Suck! 

5.9

   

FA: Troy Anderson (solo) 2003
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 140 feet
Views: 897 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 25, 2006


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Description 

This route climbs a slab up and to the right (east)of the Mormon vault. Start with an old smc hanger in the middle of a slab in the trees. Above this hanger, arch up and left via natural protection. Head towards a clean slab with three new bolts. Above these bolts climb up and right to a two bolt belay. On rope barely gets you back down.


Location 

On the approach to the Fin, there is a small opening with a clean slab in it. If you walk to the base of the slab, you'll see the Smc hanger. This is the route.


Protection 

small cams, quickdraws, maybe a mid sized cam



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By James Garrett
Oct 7, 2006

So, if TDA's route is merely a variation to a 1985 route that you now report, why was Other Intentions NOT reported before...like in the 3 previous guidebooks including LCC since 1986? Troy Warburton is from out of state...if he reported to you the route, why didn't you report. I think you are just into jumping on other people's parade.

By John Rogers
Oct 12, 2006

It wasn't Troy Warburton who did any of the reporting of this route.....it was me. As soon as I can find my photo's of this line, I will add comments. Troy is a local, who may have dropped out of the climbing scene. I am still involved, but new to this form of communication. Troy and I have never been into reporting FA's for personal glory or ego. I merely started to communicate about this route, just to give relevant history for this climb. Sorry this may have stepped on your toes....... I don't mean to jump on to other peoples parade. I only discovered this FA link as an accident, and noticed that these new routes sounded familiar. I just thought I would share some information.

By John Rogers
Oct 19, 2006

No dis respect was ever taken. Tony C. was just sharing information that I had given to him. He never knew any of this information until a few weeks ago, so its my fault any of this came to light. Lets go climbing soon, and we can share some new adventures.
John

By John Rogers
Jun 18, 2007

Troy, Don't worry about the route correction. I have been up and seen your line. It is a great looking slab, that is well protected. I think your route is a great addition to the wall, and the anchor station makes more sense than what Troy and I used nearly 20 years ago. Keep up the great climbing, and lets all get out and enjoy this great season. Both routes are great lines, and I hope to replace the old hardware soon. Thanks to Troy Anderson and Tony Calderone for showing interest in an area that I thought was fun so many years ago. You are the guys that are keeping me motivated to keep climbing!