This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Intensive Care Slab page.
Description
Slab supreme. Starting on a left-trending shelf, angle up this and clip the first bolt. Slab up some thin moves to chickenheads and another bolt. Attain a very cool dike feature, that trends steeply right. Climb this dike clipping the remainder of the bolts until you have to step off of it to get to the anchors. Very exciting moves off of the dike. Extremely fun moves up it. The second pitch (5.11b) moves right off the anchors and with some up/down movement will clip the two bolts aiming for the tree at the base of the wide crack. Do not feel that you need to go in a straight line as this will make it harder. Once you gain the tree area there will be one more difficult move up a sloped mantle. Get in the crack. Wide, rough, and very fun with the odd chickenhead.
If you want to skip the second pitch, the first pitch is 5.10b (bolts only) and great in it's own right.
Location
In a thicket of trees at the east end of the Intensive Care Slab
Protection
5 bolts on the first pitch, 2 more on the second. Wider gear for the crack. Slings around the tree for the rappel. 60 meter rope preferred for the rappel. 50 meter will work but watch your ends. Rappel off the right edge.
The first pitch is one of the best .10 slabs in the Wasatch. For the .10 slab climber, it makes a really great day to do the Fin Arete and then this on the way down. It'll feel like the bolts are super close together! The coolest dyke in the canyon.