Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Fin
Show routes:
Select route...
Dark Horse 
Dorsal Fin, The 
Fin Arete, The 
Fins and Needles 
Gills, The 
Hand Drills Suck! 
Other Intentions 

Other Intentions 

5.10b/c R

   

FA: Troy Warburton, John Rogers: 1986
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 600 feet
Views: 656 page views

Submitted By: John Rogers on Sep 25, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Route Description 

Start at the very lowest part of The Fin formation.
Pitch 1: Climb 100 feet up a slab to a ledge. Traverse 15 feet left to a bushy ledge. Climb 100 feet up a 5.6 crack and a knobby 5.10 slab. Belay at a 2-bolt/chain station on a sloping ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb 200 feet up a 5.8 slab. More detail will follow ASAP.
Pitch 3: Climb 200 feet up a 5.6 slab. More detail will follow ASAP.


Protection 

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 0.5"-3" cracks, Two 2-bolt/chain stations


Descent 

Descent from Pitch 1: Two 95-foot rappels
Descent from Pitch 2: Scramble west
Descent from Pitch 3: Scramble west


History 

This route was bolted onsight/by hand/on lead by Troy Warburton & John Rogers in 1986. Troy Warburton did not place a bolt at the crux and fell onto a chickenhead.
Troy Anderson added a 2-bolt/chain station in 2003.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers added 3 bolts and a 2-bolt/chain station in 2007.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers replaced the added brown aluminum hanger with a gray stainless-steel hanger in 2007.



Add Comment Comments on Other Intentions
Show which comments —
By John Rogers
Nov 3, 2006

Troy and I gave this climb a rating of II 5.10. Pitch 1 was 9+, second pitch 10, third was 8, fourth was 5.6 to the start of the Dorsal fin. There was no set anchor stations, and only 3 bolts total placed. I will post a photo or two as soon as I find my old pictures. I will also take some shots to show where we went.

By John Rogers
Jun 18, 2007

Thanks to Tony Calerone for all his help and interest in the area. I would also like to thank Troy Anderson for all his interst and support in the canyons as well. New bolts will replace the old 1/4" ers soon enough. I hope that everyone will enjoy this climb as much as Troy Warburton and I did years ago.

By John Rogers
1 day ago

The old 1/4" bolts on pitch #1 are now replaced with nice new rawl 3/8" equipment. 1 bolt was added to the route, at the poor protection flake. This bolt can be used to protect the moves up the flake, or the chickenhead mantle variation that is to the right of it. The route is fun to climb using either variation. The route is still "heady" but the new bolt offers safe protection at a place where "PPP" was the only option. This makes climbing the fin an all day experience, and adds many pitches to an already great location. It is still "grainy" but will clean nicely with further use.