rommie drew, finally agreeing to all my blabbering...
Description
Begin with 4 bolts up steep granite face with gigantor holds to the left of the bolt line (5.ez) or fun, slopey, off-kilter holds to the right and straight up the bolt line (5.7/.8). Move into and up steep hand crack that travels through a short o/w section behind the 'Death Flake' to great stance and ledge hold under roof. Lie back around left side of roof to sweet 15 ft. section of splitter! This puts you at a small stance under the last overhanging section. Finishes at 2 Fixe Rap Ring Anchors near tree root.
WARNING: 60m rope works great, just keep an eye on the ends!!! Lower into the uphill cave. There are at least 2 aggressive squirrels in the area so watch your packs!
Location
15' to the right of 'Golden Showers' 30' to the right of 'Looney Tunes'
Approach as for Green Adj. and stay on the East (right) side of gully. Go through the 'Cave' and arrive at obvious belay nook (flat area, stone benches, etc.).
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By Colby Wayment From: Ogden, UT Oct 1, 2006 rating: 5.10 R
Climbed this today. It will certainly be a nice crack route when the bolts are put in and it gets a little cleaner. For right now, we climbed the chimney to the left and traversed right on the ledge. Be EXTREMELY careful on the traverse from the chimney to the hand crack (Very loose). I think one bolt should go on the clean wall above that death ledge to protect the traverse over to the handcrack.
Regarding the flake: I guess I'll have to shrug my shoulders and say "oh well, it's not that bad". I don't know how much lieback abuse it would take from big people, but it is easy jam around it.
By Wally29 From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 29, 2006
Cleaned up real nice. Mellow face moves to a fun varied crack. That Glen Kaplan sure is a stud!
Seemed pretty solid to me. Really a good route. Not slabby and mostly hands which makes it unique for LCC. The sparse bolts on the first 40 feet is the only drawback, because it pulls you to the EZ ground left when the best part of the first part of the climb is really cool,too... but poorly protected when following the line of (only two!) bolts. If you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt, you would be a very hurting unit. I found the rock quality here pretty good, but maybe it just keeps cleaning up with the recent traffic. Sounds like it was a manufactured "R"...how come? At any rate, I'll be back to it the next time in the Green A....it had been so long, I wasn't even aware of the new and improved trail up there! Nice...........Thanks Glen for making the best of a natural rock slide!
This is a lot of fun! If you don't have that bigger 4.5 cam you can use a good nut a little lower or a small-to-medium cam just a little lower.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jul 28, 2007 rating: 5.9+
Two more bolts have been added to the start, so the original bolts are now bolts #2 and #4. Thanks for making the start safer!
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Aug 13, 2007 rating: 5.9
climbed this yesterday, thought it was catalyst....great route nonetheless. really good climbing...certainly not 5.10, though. I found it to be one notch easier than Gordon's, so I'll call it 5.9. Thanks for the route!
First time on this route I placed a bunch of big pieces (2 #3 and 3 #2). I redid it yesterday and didn't place anything bigger than #2 and a bunch of micros went in. Lots of gear options, some of them require a bit of imagination. The route is still a bit dirty with gravel pouring out of the cracks and a few small holds breaking. I took a fist sized rock to the face while tugging on a cam, the placement and rock looked really solid but all came out after one small pull. I'm not sure if it was worth the chipped tooth, but great route anyway!
Green Adjective Gully
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