The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals area
Description
Half-A-Finger is a sustained thin crack with 3 definite cruxes. Near the left side of the dihedrals area, look for a small pinnacle (the finger) up about 70 feet. This is the route. Start in a corner with no crack (but pro is available). Continue through two bulges with a finger crack. These are the first two cruxes. End the pitch by awkwardly squeezing up the finger with double hand cracks (third crux). I believe another variation avoids the awkward topout and climbs the face on the left.
Rap with one rope from fixed chain anchors.
Protection
Standard Rack, nothing very big is needed. Hand sized piece for the tricky topout.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Apr 13, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Can a route get any better than this one. I think not. Well that may be a bit strong, but this route kicks ass!!! 3 definite cruxes, great rock, good length, oh and the exposure on the finger. That is, of course, if you do the left finger variation. Wrap your little arms aroung that loving finger and campus on up. Man, what a route!!!!
umm, its not sustained as described, so don't be afraid to get on it and boulder the cruxes to the good rests. Great for the aspiring 5.9 gear leader with sport climbing experience.
Great climb, I thought the first two cruxes were pretty easy, ( great fingers, great pro) but very fun. That last thing is pretty awkward though. I took the right variation, so I'm not cool I guess. I had no idea how I was supposed to go left! Now I'm getting the idea, but hey, it was an onsight, I took what I saw.
Another superb route at the diehedrals! Before committing to the wild left finish, I place a 3 camalot with a long sling as high as possible. Then I lieback the finger and try not to use a knee when my feet cut loose!
Dihedrals Area
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