Stiffler's Mom 

Excellent work! I was smiling the whole way. I found that pitch 3 was the real onsight crux with pitch 5 and 6 perhaps as difficult, but more visible. Pitch 5 is the money pitch. Arete pinching, toe hooking/scumming, smearing and exciting clipping, the rock is immaculate!

We climbed through pitch 7 and used a 70 meter to rap the route. It seems that rapping pitch 5 we used almost the entire length.

Easy to follow and super fun!

Sick! Sick! Sick! CLIMB!! Get on this more than once!! Come with some skills and a good leader head. My compliments to the chef.

Climbed this route on Aug 9th. We had a really awesome time on it, thought the rock was mostly excellent, of course it is a little dirty. Even dirtier after one of my partners while leading the second pitch got off route and pulled a loose rock down on us. It was about 3' x 2' and just missed us at the first belay. Scary! This was definitely caused by the inexperience of my partner not neccesarily because the route is loose or dangerous. In fact it is a great route. Definitely bring a 70 meter rope. Pitch 5 will use all of it on rappel. Our 60 came up short and I had to rap off a single bolt to make the anchor.

Fun route, nice work boys. Three stars? I dunno about that one, or "best long route in LCC" either, but fun non the less. Thanks for putting it up!

3-stars for the 5th pitch alone. Watch out for that jug on the 4th pitch. Heavier climbers (like me) will feel it wiggle as you weight it so be sure you throw in the obvious tcu just below.

Thank you Tyler. Must have spent some serious cash and time on this route.

Nice Route and Vision. Pitch 3 was awesome and so was the crux roof on pitch 6. A key jug to clip the 2nd bolt at the crux roof felt like it was flexing (pull gently); I'm an average weight climber - maybe my mind was just tricking me. I felt pitch 5 was the most difficult "onsight" pitch.

I climbed this route 3 weeks ago for the first time. Very nice line, especially the 3rd, 5th and 6th pitches. I went back two weeks ago and cleaned up a variation to pitch 2, 3 and 4. I named it "The Slightly Stiffer Stiffler's variation." Pitch 2 variation follows the original route then veers off left to a slab/arete section - it is 5.9+ or 10a. Pitch 3 variation is 25 -30 feet to the left of pitch 3. I cleaned all the grass and munge from all the cracks and ledges, scrubbed up all the thin foot holds, worked the line and marked all the bolt placements (too hard and thin to do ground up). Got stormed off. I went back today to finish it and someone had drilled it - oh well. Sorry guy, but I did move one of your bolts that my partner and I felt was totally off. I have never changed a route before - but - had a lot of work into that pitch and wanted to see it right. This pitch is a unique climb in LCC canyon - hard lie backs on thin smears with improbable sequences. Not a typical slab, but not one with good crimps or crack either. It is probably 11b and is well protected (bring a few small cams). Although the original 3rd pitch is spectacular, this offers a more difficult and different variation. The 4th pitch variation is also left of the 5.2 usual pitch. It is probably about 5.9.
In terms of LCC long climbs, I have to agree this ranks in the top few and it is in the shade in the afternoon so a great summer outing. If you want a relatively sustained route you can now climb 5.11d (or 5.10a, A0), 5.10a, 5.10 (or 5.11b), 5.9, 5.10d/11a, 5.10d/11a, 5.9 for a great afternoon route.
Thanks for the vision and all the original work Tyler.
Tim Wolfe, George Rosenthal, Chris Abbott

I did not know that we could move bolts to suit our own purposes, place bolts next to natural protection, and place bolts on someone else's climb. Did you even think to contact us as you were hanging from our anchors? No coment as to all your "hard work". For F.A.'s such as yourselves to show such a lack of respect and ethics is saddening.
Good Luck

Sorry Tim, but you messed up on this one. I couldn't agree with Tyler and Luke more. It surprises me Tim, that you did that. "That" being, of course....squeezing or adding bolts or subtracting bolts when the First Ascentists are so available, hell, you could have called them from your cell phone on the crag if you were in such a rush to drill....that whole area has been a very evolving place and that route in particular was under what seemed like constant maintainence from Tyler and Luke. I have done the route about 5 times, and though I may have drilled it differently, it never entered my mind to go out there and redo it or change it or add something right next to it.
1. Did you know that they drilled it on lead? On your variation, You apparently did not.
2. Were you aware of how frequently and easily Tyler is available on the internet? He has taken so much grief for doing what he probably thought was a community service in putting in a well protected 8 pitch slab climb. He is a good enough climber to have climbed a 5.10b X route with much less. I am so glad he did not choose that path.
3. Are you aware of how sensitive an issue like this is?...yes, I think so because if someone did that to one of your routes that you may be proud of I would expect you to become very upset?
4. That whole section of this wall was deemed dirty and left untouched until very recently...why didn't you put up your route before Stifflers was there if you liked the wall so much?
5. Hey, I looked at that wall years ago and didn't see what Tyler and Luke saw. Unfortunately, you didn't either....maybe we both missed out...but that doesn't mean we need to decide now how we could have made it better and try to catch up for lost opportunity....it was done and they did a good job of it, right?! Why not pass out the kudos, and not independently decide how you can make it better in your opinion?
6. You said you liked the original route. With so many still unclimbed areas in the Wasatch...why not turn your efforts to those and pause and recognise these routes as what they are. What a shame to grid pattern or squeeze American Fork Style routes into this part of the Wasatch...like what you did just right of Pentapitch? It never seemd to be reported like no one wanted to fess up to it. I know I would have drilled it differently. If these are the type of routes you like, why not find unclimbed rock and do it there?
7. Smoot and Ellison just recently did some maintainence and adding bolts on the Nerve...it probably still feels run out for a gumby like me, but they are the only ones who can make those changes. I appreciate their efforts and look forward to clipping 3/8" steel up there. 5 feet to the right of that route is unclimbed rock and probably a great route...again, it is an unwelcome place to squeeze and it would detract rather than add and I hold my breath that someone could think they should go up there and "make it better".
8. Normally, I don't believe in chopping bolts, but what does the rest of the climbing community feel? After all, this area is ours and we need to cherish it. I vote for Tim to go up there and clean up his mess. And eating some Humble Pie may be in order with Tyler and Luke. I don't theink They shouldn't be held responsible for the clean up.

On number 8...it came out wrong, not to be misunderstood....I meant to say that Luke and Tyler should not be held responsible for cleaning it up....sorry for the long letter.

I am quoting TP off of utahclimbers.com for a better beta than was originally posted.

Start on the same slab as One Time At Band Camp, there is a seam/splitter running up the right side, pass a fixed pin ( best piece on lower part of pitch) then go into a thin flake, that turns a corner passing a tree onto a ledge 5.8-.

2nd pitch climbs above belay to a bolt, continue up through short 4th class to a beautiful .5" finger splitter (ends at pine growing out of crack) on a slab then up corner to belay stance/ anchors 5.8-.

3rd pitch climbs BEAUTIFUL flakes to a fun roof, from the roof, clip a bolt and climb more ..5" slab cracks to 2 bolts on the left arete (super bouldery) 5.10+.

4th pitch. From awesome belay ledge climb dirt filled crack to more cleaner cracks to nice ledge 5.7.

5th pitch ( my fav.) Climb short left facing dihedral to slab, clip a bolt move right, climb up sweet flake to more bolts that follow a shallow left facing dihedral ( 4 bolts), from top of the dihedral get the sequence right and traverses dead left past three bolts to the stellar American Pie Ledge, 5.10+.

6th Pitch. Climb roof passing three bolts and a small TCU placement, then follow dihedral up, passing a fixed pin to some sweet hands, after the crack, slab climb past 4 closely spaced bolts to belay/ anchor 5.11a.

Pitch 7. Climb obvious undercling up and left to dihedral, launch up dihedral ( super fun) to clip a bolt and traverse right along ramp clipping another bolt, mantle to chains. This is where the 3 star climbing ends.

Pitch 8 climb up to roof passing it on the left side, clip a hard to see fixed pin and pull into the alcove, natural belay, 5.7 rotten.

Pitch 9, from alcove climb up and right, the height of the route becomes apparent as the canyon road to the mouth and beyond can bee seen, stretch the rope and find a natural belay ( not hard super easy ground w/ trees). 5.6+.

From here scramble up towards "summit", there is a major gully splitting the upper face climb/hike up this until more technical climbing appears. There are a few variations here, but the best one climbs up hand cracks on the left hand side, turn formation on the left via finger traverse that is memorable, continue up 5th class to last tech. obstacle and surmount the "summit" on the left. 5.8 for last section w/ lots of 5th class, about 400 feet. From the Pentapitch "summit" take in the awesome views of upper Coalpit and of SLC.

Descend by walking east then wrap around north and down towards Stiffler's Mom. From the top of the 7th pitch look up, there is a large dead tree, next to this tree is the rap anchors to rap the route. Currently you need a 70m rope or 2 50m to rap the entire route, rap the route.

The route was put in ground up.

Great route, with so many styles of climbing. I got the two plum pitches, thanks Mark. It's amazing that this line stayed unplucked until now.

Tim wrote,""Sorry guy, but I did move one of your bolts that my partner and I felt was totally off. I have never changed a route before - but - had a lot of work into that pitch and wanted to see it right.""

I'm appalled by the self-righteousness of this statement. Its really amazing that someone would say this without even trying to contact the FA. Is one thing to disagree but completely different to act first.

yeah...big boo boo to even think about moving someone else's bolt much less just go and do it...without even checking with folks first!

while we are here...who got to superslabs before me?...I did plenty of reconnaisance in the past and then finally went up there to begin mapping the route in preparation...low and behold...I went up there early summer...explored...liked it...came back a bit later...and there are brand new shiny bolts there! in fact...there is a four pitch, mostly bolted route there! oh well...I missed it...

"In fact I challenge these REAL climbers who put up Stifflers, to hold the secrets they have to their tight circle. To keep closed mouth of their developments (I know they are working on some to date). To hell with all these bickering idiots that need other people to help them "discover" other areas. Let those people do laps on the same routes. Its easy to critize, its easy to argue, its not as easy to see through open eyes."

But Troy A., What about those of us who just keep our mouth shut and opinions to ourselves and climb on?? I still want to be in the know on the new stuff going up around here, but unfortunatly I'm not in these guy's "tight circle" (though I want to be...).

Thanks a lot to the F***-heads who think it's okay to alter other peoples work to cater their own needs!!!

No, it most certainly is NOT the same as rap drilling. Where do you come up with these definitions?

Fun route with an emphasis on fun. There are tons of routes that can scare your pants off in LCC, but this ain't one of them. Nice work effort, too. Looking around the buttress and especially at the upper pitches, I got the idea of what it was like before. I liked the choice of line, but I didn't clip all the bolts. I had too much gear and not enough quickdraws and slings.

I only noticed a couple of bare studs sticking out when I took the time to search around. I've seen worse messes. Too many variations would make it more confusing, although it would be a fun route to have 50m double ropes for exploring different variations and for ease of descent.

Tony, SLC has never been overtly ethical since I've been around. There are lots of different styles on the granite in LCC. I think you've made your point, so let the FA crew figure it out.

Tony, James is right. Hanging off a hook or sling or whatever aint the same as rapp bolting, not by a long shot. Guess Mr. Bachar should have just rapp bolted that thing in Tuolumne he did with Mr. Yerian.

Sounds like Tim and party messed up.

Been climbing since 1970.In regards to bolting and new routes,Sounds like the wasatch climbing community, (unfortunately)may have to consider, some sorta group, or ????? that could review,routes and proposed bolting, prior to the deed.Face it, there will be routes spaced just inches apart at some point.Route finding will easy " Just count over so many bolted lines or use a tape measure, to find the start of the climb you have selected.Kinda like an outside gym.
CLIMB WITH STYLE : CHEERS!!!!

Umm... I climbed the first three pitches of Stiffler's today. And I noticed that most of the bolts on the first two pitches are removed... Just FYI for anybody headed up there.

Rob C is mistaken. All the missing bolts were off of One Time @ Band Camp and the Tim W variations, Stifflers is fine. The route is now patched no studs/holes or nothing. Please leave it be.

Did this route last year, with the first pitch variation. Just came back yesterday to do it and was suprised to find the empty holes on the first pitch/variation.

Anyway, still a fun route. Thanks for all the effort Tyler and crew.

Only did the first 5 pitches, but I've got to say, some of those slabs are down right sweet. And a few good cracks thrown in between. Though bring your A game for the slabs. Also bring you broom. I don't know if it just early in the season or what.. Some down right good climbing for sure! I'll be back for the upper pitches.

Also, after the 4th pitch you really should have a 70m or two ropes with you for the rappel. You come up to short.

Did the route 5/19/07. Most of the climb was very cool. The third pitch is as good as any in LCC. Unfortunately, my partner who led the third pitch (linking 2 and 3) decided to try the "5.8" crack to the right of the bolts. We ended up climbing the dirt clogged thingy. YUCK! The bolted way is much better and not that hard (under 5.10). The direct bolted line on the first fully bolted pitch was really cool until after the roof. couldn't quite figure out how to do it. Ended up laybacking the arete feature which felt really insecure (which is too bad considering that there is a way easier alternative just to the right. I won't bolt it but if the small corner just to the right were bolted it is only about 5.8/9!!! Maybe a single FP would do the trick.) The American Pie ledge is really cool (kicked back for a while there). The crux pitch had a really cool sequence but both of us agreed that the bolt would've been better further right and a bit higher. If you blew the moves with some slack out you will smack the slab below! LOOK OUT ANKLES! All in all though it was cool how every 10-20 feet you had something totoally different to work out. Fun day.

The Crux pitch has definitely gone up a notch since the flexing jug is no more. Without this crucial hold it's definitely harder to pull over the roof on pitch six. Good luck on pulling this move now, it is possible, but significantly harder.

Criscokid where you even on the same route? Done it a few times and your description sounds cryptic at best. LOOK OUT ANKLES???? WTF? where? You need a new belayer if you are thinking that. A 5.8 or 5.9pitch to the right of p5? You just need better slab technique, lying that back is like lying back a Indian Creek crack, poor style.And on the best pitch of the route. IMO.

Dickhead Brett

Crisokid must have some sic slab skills if he thinks the 3rd pitch slab is under 5.10...

I can't help but wonder if the flexing jug made the bolt placement on the crux better. Yes, if you are trying a move between the two bolts and blow it, you could hit the slab or ledge below. We actually placed a TCU in the crack instead of clipping the bolt and felt totally fine. And there is a pretty moderate corner to the right of the bolted direct line (pitch 5). You would move a few feet to the right instead of turning the roof.

So the jug finally went. I have done the moves not using the jug and felt it was still 5.11a, but I am a lurpy dude. What do you guys think, (go climb it before giving me your answer please, and i will too, soon.) Should that bolt get moved that Crisco skipped? From his description it sounds like the 2nd bolt to the 6th pitch.

Tyler

Stiffler's Mom, "Like a good wine, just gets better with age".

The jug is missing on pitch 6, but it really hasn't made the climbing any harder. It in fact provides a better(lower)foot hold and may make it a little easier. My partner says "in the gunks that pitch would be 5.9". What a dick.

The bolts are fine on pitch 6, no need to change anything.