Lisa Falls Right 

This thing is pretty dangerous. Coming off the mantle, which would certainly be possible on a hot greasy day or if your head wasn't screwed on straight, would probably break a leg.

I would say this is a 5.5 climb for a solid 5.8 leader. Its a shame because one bolt, which would certainly have been easy and logical to hand drill on lead, would turn this into a fantastic beginner lead. As it is, the 5.5 fingercrack route to the right is far safer and a much better route anyway.

I think this is a great lead for beginners. Maybe not the best first lead, but good early lead nonetheless. I will say this with a certain degree of predictability: this route does not need a bolt. :)

Steve mentions that he liked Neurotica because it is a good full rope length. Well, this one starts and stops in the same places that N. does. You can do this as one pitch also. If you want to walk off, you can (but if you have a rope, the rappel is better). Continue up for about 15 to 20 feet into the trees. Head (climber's) right (east), bushwhacking your way down, eventually passing Drag Queen.

I'm not advocating adding a bolt at this point - mostly just giving a heads up that a fall on the crux would likely lead to a trip to the hospital. I can't really think of any other moderate routes in LCC with stars in the guidebook that would have such a serious consequence because of a fall in the crux. Something to keep in mind if you are a new leader.

I did an interesting variation on the first pitch. Rather than starting the friction down low, I went just a little ways up the bomber finger crack, did a shelfy sideways mantle (with good pro, maybe a 5.6/7 move), which put me almost exactly even with the lower anchors. I stuck a piece in above the mantle (very well protected for second), and traversed 15-20 feet to anchors with no pro. The traverse couldn't have been harder than 5.3, just a little heady.