Indecent Exposure, showing one of the good section...
Description
This is the very highly recommended variation on Standard Thumb.
Pitch one:Start up the gully for about 20 feet and then move onto the right wall up steep cracks (fun moves) to the tree filled gully. Continue up through the trees and belay where the trees end.
Pitch two:Climb the great hand/arm crack continuing up and to the right until you come to a roof. Undercling to the right and up onto lunch ledge and an obvious belay.
You now have a few choices... up the awesome S-direct, up the classic trough pitch, or rappel.
Protection
Standard trad rack, long runners to girth hitch trees.
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By Nathan Fisher Administrator Aug 22, 2004 rating: 5.7
2 great sections of climbing. The lower twin cracks, that I thought were the best, and the upper crack. Unfortunately they are divided by a lengthy forest!!!
Really fun unless you have a haul bag. Maybe it is because i don't know how to properly haul, but it took me and my buddy at least an hour to haul our bags up the first pitch of this variation. Other then that i would much prefer this variation over the dirty gully of the standard thumb. Oh yeah about half way up the "jungle" there is another variation, like a 5.5 traverse, that takes you to the killer 5.8 trough above the crux of s-crack.
yeah dawg, we were sleeping on lunch ledge so we tried a haul bag. Probably a bad idea.
By Boissal From: SLC, UT May 12, 2008 rating: 5.7+
You can avoid doing battle with the trees by staying on the left face. When the double cracks fade out move right to the edge of the brushy crack for a couple of moves then back left in a system of discontinuous shallow cracks. Pretty runout but easy (5.8ish?).We set up a belay on a nice little shelf left of the last tree. No bushwhacking involved.
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