Without question the best route on the wall. This route has so many different techniques packed into it's one pitch that it amazes me, and it is consistently 5.10 almost the entire length. Start with a mantle, followed by a slab move or two, up to an undercling. Traverse left on this undercling, transtition into a layback, and work the layback for a few moves. Mount the roof with a throw, make some steep face moves to another undercling. Traverse right delicately with reaches and underclings all the while slabbing it out with your feet. Mount another roof and finish with an exciting and exposed slab move to die for. WOW!
Location
5th route from the left. Just past the easy groove right of Hidden Agenda.
Protection
The book shows 8 bolts, I clipped 10. 2 bolt anchor at the top.
I think this is the best single pitch bolted route in LCC. Lots of variety and fun moves. And, like all the climbs on this wall, it's well bolted. 5.10b, 4 stars.
I do remember this being thought provoking. But I don't remember it being as terrific as everyone talks about. Maybe it's just me. I know I thought: "That was cool" but I didn't ever think "WOW!:"
RSS Feed
