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Crescent Crack Buttress
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Hand Jive 

5.8

   

FA: Jack Roberts, Don McCarthy 1976
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 1,194 page views

Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Mar 17, 2004


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Rob nearing the wet upper part of the crack.


Description 

Hand Jive is generally approached by climbing Crack in the Woods first, or you can climb the chimney leading up to the crack. It is the appealing looking thin hands crack above and right of Crack in the Woods.

From Crack in the Woods, downclimb into the chimney and undercling out right into the crack system. Liebacking and jamming leads to a bolted rap anchor, which will just barely get you to the ground with one 60m rope.

This pitch felt harder and more insecure to me than Crack in the Woods. I'd give this 8+ or 9-.


Protection 

Stoppers, small cams to 3"



Add Photo Photos of Hand Jive
Aaron Weaver leading the second pitch of Crack in the Woods.

Aaron Weaver leading the second pitch of Crack in ...

Croft on Hand Jive

Croft on Hand Jive

Shayne Durfee on the Hand Jive, Photo by Adam Clark.

Shayne Durfee on the Hand Jive, Photo by Adam Clar...

Hand Jive - fun climb on a nice crack!

Hand Jive - fun climb on a nice crack!


Add Comment Comments on Hand Jive
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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Apr 6, 2005
rating: 5.8+

Again, Andrew hits the nail on the head. A little insecure, right around the bulge, and also the step over to start it was exhillarating. It was a little bit wet still near the top. If you climb Crack in the Woods, climb this also.

By vincent pierce
Sep 13, 2005
rating: 5.9

This is definately the 5.9 and Crack in Woods is the 5.8. Pretty fun route using lots of medium gear. I would recommend starting this route from its base at the bottom of the chimney. I downclimbed the chimney from the top of Crack in the Woods and leading it this way means you have to climb about ten to fifteen feet before placing. This could set you up for a nasty weird toprope slam into the chimney wall at what may be the crux of the route (undercling flake to the crack).

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.8

love the start, kind of unique in the canyon. any body else contemplate jumping into the crack from the top of crack in the woods.

By Polly
Jul 13, 2006

Crack in the woods and Hand Jive are both still in the shade until around 1:00pm- makes a great late morning two pitches. Any later than 12:30-1-ish though Hand Jive gets hot like the rest of them. Hand Jive is a great crack- it's got a little of everything. The couple moves past the undercling start are definitely the crux (for an average height girl).

By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.8

Nah, not bad for the second if you wait just a bit before placing pro after the step across. Also, if you use a rabbit runner on the first piece, then sling the second piece long, if your partner does come off at the step off from the top of Crack in the Woods, then the TR will be fully deployed and there won't be much if any swing. This route is 5.8, C in the W is 5.9, IMHO.

By Floridaputz
Jul 1, 2008

Beautiful pitch. very sustained. The earily moves are sweet, you are basicaly on Top rope when starting this pitch if belaying off crack in the woods. I agree with the previous comments. Of course the higher you get before placeing your 1st piece the better.