Fingertrip Variation 

Sews up nicely, I didn't think it was even PG-13. There is some weeping on the route after wet weather that makes for a headier lead. Bring lots of long runners to help reduce rope drag if you climb this in one pitch.

I actually think this is better than Beckey's...
Awesome as one pitch, then do Bam Bam for a great 2 pitch...
Best to have 2 ropes, then at least you can rap from the top of Fingertip all the way to the ground...
I didn't really think it was PG13 either...maybe those first pieces ain't as good as I think they are--because of expanding--but the moves are actually really bomber, just big.
Great Line!

Definitely one of the best at the Gate when done as one long pitch. Its not really run out but falling before getting a second piece after leaving the Becky could be a nasty one back onto the slab.

For descent, we belay the 2nd down (TRed) to the Beckey Routes chain anchors and then the leader downclimbs that easy 20' section on belay.

Great pitch!

Not really all that R, but as mentioned, a fall back onto the slab could be messy.

The tree at the top is starting to look a little worse for the wear. Definitely a noticeable difference since the last time I was up there. We didn't rap off of it, easy enough to get back to the Becky's anchors, but it might be a candidate for a new convenience rap anchor.

Any thoughts or comments?

That was my cord around those trees. Thank god it was dark when I rapped off them last week, they are in bad shape. I bet after doing Pebbles and Bam Bam you could rap to the proposed station and then proceed down to the sub-anchor on Beckys. One vote for an anchor.

Just rap of of the beckys anchors.

There was a convenience anchor added by the first bolt on pebbles by s000meone and after public outcry it was removed.

Why dont we just leave it the way it has been for years.


Less drilling more climbing!!!

One vote for fuck no!

With a 70M rope you can rappel from the top of Pebbles and Bambam back to the belay ledge.

And if you dont have a 70m then take two ropes.
After all this is LCC. Right???

Who added all the bolted rappel stations to Becky's? None of those are original.

I don't really care if a bolted anchor is placed in that location, but it has been a pretty common practice in the Wasatch to replace webbing around old abused trees and bushes with more reliable fixed anchors, especially on popular routes.

Why is this different?

I agree that a bolted rap station is better than killing a tree. The current climbing ethic seems to lean more towards an "everyone get home safe" motto.
I understand the trad ethic of leave no trace and don't place bolts if you don't have to (I started climbing at Suicide and Tahquitz in California). But on these really popular, easily accessible, routes I have no beef at all with good, solid belay/rap anchors.

Even with a 70m you can't make it to the very fucked up belay chains on Becky's. (very un-equalized). Yeah that makes 0 sense to add a bolt by the first one on Pebbles, there isn't a stance, so that makes sense for removal, but there is a bomber stance around some DYING trees/roots that would be nice. Whats the f-in difference from the lame sub-anchor 35 feet up Beckys and adding a station that makes sense on a stance? If your 2 rope ethos are so strong should that be removed too? Or is it because we were in diapers when that was added now we have no say?

Look at Penta-pitch. Used to rap off trees or downclimb, now we have bolts all the way down. The only difference is the person who did that didn't give a shit about what the community thought they just did it, probably in the name of saving trees.

The problem is that this kind of thing has become common practice like Craig said.

It is still adding bolts to a route that has never had them.

Just because some jack ass, back in the day bought a drill and added bolts to other routes does not make it okay.

Just my two cents
You guys do what you like.

Oh i don't have plans to drill the anchors I was just down for the discussion.

Me too bro.
No big deal.

No plans on my part either, but I did think the condition of the anchor deserved mention.

Thanks to those who commented.

The upper piton is getting a bit wobbly. Not really a concern since it can be backed up with a .5 but it might come out soon with a bit of a tug. Pound it back in place if you pull it, it brings me great joy to clip these things.
And pull gently on the lower flakes, coming back down on the slab with a 200lbs section of the route would suck!

The tree anchor has not been replaced and the tree is in better shape than a lot of others I've rapped from. Oh well, it forces you to climb one of the slabs and do 3 raps if you only have 1 rope. There's an interesting new rap station halfway down pebbles in the dihedral, a huge choke slung with sections of what seems to be 12mm line. Funneh.

whats the big deal with bringing 2 ropes? my theory is if the leader has to haul a rope up then it shouldnt be a big deal if the follower does. 2 raps are better than 3. 1 from the top of pebbles and dwf to beckeys top bolts then to the ground from there. no big deal.