The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
bobber, solid
Description
A very exciting line up a vertical crack just right of the vertical portion of Beckey's Wall. Start on Beckey's, and step right and go right up thin flakes, small crimps, and exhillarating liebacks. This route is every bit as good as Beckey's.
Protection
3 pins on the route, slung tree at the top. Bring more in case there are none. Small to medium gear. Cams seemed useful for some of the early pieces. Not as runout as I thought it would be. Watch the pins, watch the flakes with your cams. They won't last forever.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Oct 10, 2006 rating: 5.8+
Sews up nicely, I didn't think it was even PG-13. There is some weeping on the route after wet weather that makes for a headier lead. Bring lots of long runners to help reduce rope drag if you climb this in one pitch.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 4, 2006 rating: 5.8
I actually think this is better than Beckey's... Awesome as one pitch, then do Bam Bam for a great 2 pitch... Best to have 2 ropes, then at least you can rap from the top of Fingertip all the way to the ground... I didn't really think it was PG13 either...maybe those first pieces ain't as good as I think they are--because of expanding--but the moves are actually really bomber, just big. Great Line!
Definitely one of the best at the Gate when done as one long pitch. Its not really run out but falling before getting a second piece after leaving the Becky could be a nasty one back onto the slab. For descent, we belay the 2nd down (TRed) to the Beckey Routes chain anchors and then the leader downclimbs that easy 20' section on belay.
Beckey's Wall Area
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