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Westwind Buttress
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Eastwind Crack 
Empty Plate 
Grumpy Old Men 
Textbook Variation 

Empty Plate 

5.9+ A2- PG13

   

FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 18 June 2005
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.9+ A2- [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III
Season: Summer, Spring, Fall
Views: 239 page views

Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 20, 2006


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Airy stance


Description 

Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Thumb to the gully belay. Belay at a two bolt belay. 5.6, 140'.

Pitch #2: Continue in the gully on the Standard Thumb route to a two bolt belay. 5.7.

Pitch #3: Here, ascend out of the Gully onto Westwind Buttress past three bolts on a steep blank section to a thin crack/seam. The seam ends and you will pass more fixed bolts to mixed ground to a two bolt belay on a ledge. 5.9, A2. 110'.

Pitch #4. Turn the corner to the left and climb the thin steep crack and sling chicken heads and clip bolts to a small airy ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.7, A1. 90'.

Pitch #5: Fun climbing passing the knobs and 7 bolts to the end of the climb...just 15 feet below the actual summit. The rock quality deteriorates the higher up one climbs...the last pitch didn't deliver as promised...an empty plate. 5.8, A1


Location 

East Face of Westwind Buttress.
Rappel the route with two ropes.


Protection 

Most pitons were left in place. Take small selection.
A small selection of copper or alu heads.
Set of nuts and microcams.
Set of Camalots to #3
Assortment of hooks.



Photos of Empty Plate Slideshow Add Photo
The last pitch of Empty Plate drilling into the night

The last pitch of Empty Plate drilling into the ni...

Starting Pitch #4

Starting Pitch #4

View to The Thumb

View to The Thumb


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By Craig Martin
From: Park City, UT
Sep 5, 2006

You might want to bring a bat hook.