Evil Eye 

FA:  Brian Smoot, Jonathon Smoot, and Glen Henshaw, September 2001 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Views: 451 page views Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Begin at lowest point of buttress.
Pitch #1: Follow 5 bolts past a tricky roof to a ledge and traverse right (5.9) to the belay or climb the crack to the right (5.7) of the first 3 bolts.
Pitch #2: Climb past a fixed piton through two more roofs and about 4 bolts to the two bolt belay. 5.10, 170'.
Pitch #3: Climb straight up great face climbing passing about 6 bolts to the the midway ledge. 5.10d or 5.11a.
Pitch #4: Scramble for about 160 feet up low angle looseness. 5.5.
Pitch #5: Head toward the areteand climb it until the huge ledge which shares the final pitch of Black Streak 100 feet to the left. 5.8.
Pitch #6: From the belay, traverse 40' to the left on the ledge and head up a steep short wall. The first bolt was marked with red tape to identify the route, but this may be gone. Belay at the first ledge encountered. 5.9.
Pitch #7: A short section of 5.11a face leads to a wonderful 5.6 handcrack to the top of the wall. 5.11a.

Location 

This route is located about 120' to the right of Black Streak. Either rappel Black Streak with one 60m rope or walk off.

Protection 

1 each #0-#3 microcams
2 each #.50-#1 Camalots
1 each #2-#3.5 Camalots
QDs and many shoulder length runners