Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Devil's Castle from the trail.
Description
The North Face of Devil's Castle is within the Alta Ski Area boundary and within a 20-30 minute approach hike from the Albion Basin Campground. Spring to late summer snow forms a bergschrund type barrier to the beginning of the routes which adds to the alpine flavor. Take more clothes and weather protection than you think....even if valley temperatures are really hot! Prone to late afternoon thundershowers. Wear a helmet for all climbing here. The rock is limestone and considered chossy by some people, so if you are a sport climber never accustomed to touching possible loose rock...go elsewhere. This is great climbing in a beautiful setting and rarely crowded. If other parties are on the wall, walk off instead or do the rappels of BLACK STREAK, which can be rappelled with one 60m rope.
Getting There
Drive as far up Little Cottonwood Canyon as possible. Continue on the dirt road (when open) up to the Albion Basin Campground. Ice axes and big boots may be helpful for early season approaches that should not require more than 30 minutes. A fine trail leads out of campsite #13 which passes some private homes. If making reservations for camping, this campsite gives you awesome views and the closest approach to the Castle. Respect these properties and stay on the trail and avoid passing through too close to the homes. Above trail and tree line, the approach is obvious.
Fun, 6-7 pitch alpine "sport" route. The first bolted route on the North Face of Devil's Castle and due to its inclusion in the Ruckman Guide, the most popular. Subsequently, it is also the cleanest and currently the one most free of loose rock. Pitch #1: Bolt protected face climbing to a ledge and anchor, 5.10a, 130'.Pitch #2: Crux pitch goes through a roof and to the right to another ledge and bolt chained anchor, 5.10b, 150'. Pitch...[more]
Devil's Castle
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